The South of France—East Half — Reading Notes
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C. B. Black's guidebook, first published in 1885, presents the South of France—East Half as a series of railway routes, each annotated with practical details and local color. The author's voice is that of a seasoned traveler who has personally inspected the hotels, roads, and landmarks he describes. He does not merely list facts; he offers judgments, such as which hotels are "especially good of their class" and which establishments "do not receive promiscuous company." The guide is built around the traveler's experience, from the mean winter temperature of Monte Carlo (49.3°F) to the cost of a cab ride to Menton (15 francs).
Black's prose is precise and occasionally dry, but it reveals a sharp eye for detail. He notes the placement of a cemetery wall, the number of cushioned arm-chairs in a concert hall (600), and the historical punishment of a relic thief. These observations ground the guide in a specific time and place, making it a valuable record of late-19th-century travel.
Hotel Ratings and the Language of Class
Black employs a systematic rating system for hotels, using numbers and asterisks to denote quality. First-class houses are marked with a "1," second-class with a "2," and an asterisk signifies that they are "especially good of their class." This system is explained at random points in the text, suggesting that the reader is expected to encounter it organically. In La Condamine, for example, he lists hotels with prices ranging from 8 to 10 francs per day, while on Monte Carlo, the rates climb to 15–20 francs. The asterisk appears on hotels like the Beau Rivage and the Grand Hotel, which "do not receive promiscuous company," a phrase that reveals social hierarchies of the era. Black's attention to these distinctions reflects the guide's intended audience: middle- and upper-class travelers who valued comfort and exclusivity.
Historical Anecdotes as Local Color
Black enriches his descriptions with historical incidents that are often gruesome or peculiar. In Monaco, he recounts that in 1070, Prince Hugues ordered the nose and ears of Captain Antinopes to be cut off for stealing the relics of St. Devota. This story is inserted into a paragraph about the parish church and the harbor, blending practical information with a sense of the past. Similarly, he notes that the Casino was built by F. Blanc, a native of Avignon who formerly owned the Cursaal of Homburg. These details are not essential for navigation, but they give the guide a distinctive character. Black does not moralize about gambling; he simply describes the layout of the rooms, the orchestra of nearly 80 musicians, and the betting limits (5 to 6000 francs). The historical anecdotes serve as markers of place, connecting the present landscape to its layered history.
Descriptive Precision in Landscape and Architecture
Black's descriptions of the Riviera are notable for their specificity. He writes of Monaco that "the rocks are covered with prickly pear plants, here very abundant," and that the Jardin St. Martin is "a very pretty promenade, with charming views." The Casino is described as "a large and showy building" with a concert-room "profusely decorated with gilt ornaments intermingled with paintings in fresco." He notes the number of cushioned arm-chairs (600) and the subdued colors of the stage. This precision extends to the geography: Monte Carlo is "not an isolated rock like Monaco, but the abrupt termination of a ridge sloping upwards." Black's language is functional but vivid, allowing the reader to visualize the setting. He also includes practical details, such as the location of the English chapel "above the Hôtel Victoria" and the omnibus route from the Casino to Nice.
The Guidebook as a Record of Travel Infrastructure
Black's guide is deeply concerned with the infrastructure of travel: railways, roads, cabs, and omnibuses. The routes follow the main railways, and he provides mileage numbers and fares. In Monaco, he lists cab fares: 1½ francs within the principality, 3 francs per hour, and 15 francs to Menton and back. He notes the omnibus that runs between Monte Carlo and Nice by the new road, departing from the Casino. The guide also includes information about postal services, churches, and restaurants. Black's attention to these details reflects the practical needs of the traveler, but it also documents the state of transportation in the 1880s. The mention of "the new road" and the railway viaduct at La Condamine indicates a region in transition, where modern infrastructure was reshaping the landscape. Black's guide captures this moment with clarity and authority.
Black's guidebook rewards the reader who appreciates both practical advice and historical texture. His voice is that of a knowledgeable companion, not a mere compiler of facts. The careful reader will notice how his descriptions of hotels, roads, and landmarks reveal the social and economic conditions of the late 19th century. The guide is best used as a reference for specific routes, but it also offers a window into the experience of travel in an era before mass tourism. Black's attention to detail—from the number of orchestra members to the price of a cab—makes this a valuable document for anyone interested in the history of the Riviera or the evolution of guidebooks.
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