Ismailia — Inside the Classic
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In the present work I shall describe the history of the Khedive of Egypt's expedition, which I have had the honour to command, as the first practical step that has been taken to suppress the slave trade of Central Africa.
I shall not repeat, beyond what may be absolutely necessary, that which has already been published in my former works on Africa, "The Albert N'yanza" and "The Nile Tributaries of Abyssinia," but I shall adhere to the simple path taken by the expedition. This enterprise was the natural result of my original explorations, in which I had been an eye-witness to the horrors of the slave trade, which I determined, if possible, to suppress.
In my former journey I had traversed countries of extreme fertility in Central Africa, with a healthy climate favourable for the settlement of Europeans, at a mean altitude of 4,000 feet above the sea level. This large and almost boundless extent of country was well peopled by a race who only required the protection of a strong but paternal government to become of considerable importance, and to eventually develop the great resources of the soil.
I found lands varying in natural capabilities according to their position and altitudes--where sugar, cotton, coffee, rice, spices, and all tropical produce might be successfully cultivated; but those lands were without any civilized form of government, and "every man did what seemed right in his own eyes."
In this dislocated state of society, the slave trade prospered to the detriment of all improvement. Rich and well-populated countries were rendered desolate; the women and children were carried into captivity; villages were burnt, and crops were destroyed or pillaged; the population was driven out; a terrestrial paradise was converted into an infernal region; the natives who were originally friendly were rendered hostile to all strangers, and the general result of the slave trade could only be expressed in one word--"ruin."
The slave hunters and traders who had caused this desolation were for the most part Arabs, subjects of the Egyptian government.
These people had deserted their agricultural occupations in the Soudan and had formed companies of brigands in the pay of various merchants of Khartoum. The largest trader had about 2,500 Arabs in his pay, employed as pirates or brigands, in Central Africa. These men were organized after a rude military fashion, and armed with muskets; they were divided into companies, and were officered in many cases by soldiers who had deserted from their regiments in Egypt or the Soudan.
It is supposed that about 15,000 of the Khedive's subjects who should have been industriously working and paying their taxes in Egypt were engaged in the so-called ivory trade and slave-hunting of the White Nile.
Each trader occupied a special district, where, by a division of his forces in a chain of stations, each of which represented about 300 men, he could exercise a right of possession over a certain amount of assumed territory.
In this manner enormous tracts of country were occupied by the armed bands from Khartoum, who could make alliances with the native tribes to attack and destroy their neighbours, and to carry off their women and children, together with vast herds of sheep and cattle.
I have already fully described this system in "The Albert N'yanza," therefore it will be unnecessary to enter into minute details in the present work. It will be sufficient, to convey an idea of the extended scale of the slave-hunting operations, to explain that an individual trader named Agad assumed the right over nearly NINETY THOUSAND SQUARE MILES of territory. Thus his companies of brigands could pillage at discretion, massacre, take, burn, or destroy throughout this enormous area, or even beyond this broad limit, if they had the power.
It is impossible to know the actual number of slaves taken from Central Africa annually; but I should imagine that at least fifty thousand are positively either captured and held in the various zareebas (or camps) or are sent via the White Nile and the various routes overland by Darfur and Kordofan. The loss of life attendant upon the capture and subsequent treatment of the slaves is frightful. The result of this forced emigration, combined with the insecurity of life and property, is the withdrawal of the population from the infested districts. The natives have the option of submission to every insult, to the violation of their women and the pillage of their crops, or they must either desert their homes and seek independence in distant districts, or ally themselves with their oppressors to assist in the oppression of other tribes. Thus the seeds of anarchy are sown throughout Africa, which fall among tribes naturally prone to discord. The result is horrible confusion,--distrust on all sides,--treachery, devastation, and ruin.
This was the state of Central Africa and the White Nile when I was first honoured with the notice of Ismail Pacha, the present Khedive of Egypt.
I had received certain intimations from the Foreign Minister, Nubar Pacha, concerning the Khedive's intentions, a short time previous to an invitation with which I was honoured by his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales to accompany their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess during their tour in Egypt.
It is almost needless to add that, upon arrival in Egypt, the Prince of Wales, who represented at heart the principles of Great Britain, took the warmest interest in the suppression of the slave trade.
The Khedive, thus supported and encouraged in his ideas of reform, concluded his arrangements for the total abolition of the slave trade, not only throughout his dominions, but he determined to attack that moral cancer by actual cautery at the very root of the evil.
I was accordingly requested to draw up a plan for the proposed expedition to Central Africa.
After some slight modifications, I received from the Khedive the following firman:--
"We, Ismail, Khedive of Egypt, considering the savage condition of the tribes which inhabit the Nile Basin;
"Considering that neither government, nor laws, nor security exists in those countries;
"Considering that humanity enforces the suppression of the slave-hunters who occupy those countries in great numbers;
"Considering that the establishment of legitimate commerce throughout those countries will be a great stride towards future civilization, and will result in the opening to steam navigation of the great equatorial lakes of Central Africa, and in the establishing a permanent government . . . . We have decreed and now decree as follows:--
"An expedition is organized to subdue to our authority the countries situated to the south of Gondokoro;
"To suppress the slave trade; to introduce a system of regular commerce;
"To open to navigation the great lakes of the equator;
"And to establish a chain of military stations and commercial depots, distant at intervals of three days' march, throughout Central Africa, accepting Gondokoro as the base of operations.
"The supreme command of this expedition is confided to Sir Samuel White Baker, for four years, commencing from 1st April, 1869; to whom also we confer the most absolute and supreme power, even that of death, over all those who may compose the expedition.
"We confer upon him the same absolute and supreme authority over all those countries belonging to the Nile Basin south of Gondokoro."
It was thus that the Khedive determined at the risk of his popularity among his own subjects to strike a direct blow at the slave trade in its distant nest. To insure the fulfilment of this difficult enterprise, he selected an Englishman, armed with a despotic power such as had never been intrusted by a Mohammedan to a Christian.
The slave trade was to be suppressed; legitimate commerce was to be introduced, and protection was to be afforded to the natives by the establishment of a government.
The suppression of the slave trade was a compliment to the European Powers which would denote the superiority of Egypt, and would lay the first stone in the foundation of a new civilization; and a population that was rapidly disappearing would be saved to Africa.
To effect this grand reform it would be necessary to annex the Nile Basin, and to establish a government in countries that had been hitherto without protection, and a prey to the adventurers from the Soudan. To convey steel steamers from England, and to launch them upon the Albert Lake, and thus open the resources of Central Africa; to establish legitimate trade in a vast country which had hitherto been a field of rapine and of murder; to protect the weak and to punish the evil-doer, and to open the road to a great future, where the past had been all darkness and the present reckless spoliation--this was the grand object which Ismail, the Khedive of Egypt, determined to accomplish.
In this humane enterprise he was firmly supported by his two Ministers, Nubar Pacha and Cherif Pacha (an Armenian and a Circassian). The young princes his sons, who are well-educated and enlightened men, took the greatest interest in the undertaking; but beyond these and a few others, the object of the expedition was regarded with ill-concealed disgust.
Having received full powers from the Khedive, I gave orders for the following vessels to be built of steel by Messrs. Samuda Brothers:--
No. 1. A paddle steamer of 251 tons, 32-horse power. No. 2. A twin screw high-pressure steamer of 20-horse power, 108 tons. No. 3. A twin screw high-pressure steamer of 10-horse power, 38 tons. Nos. 4, 5. Two steel lifeboats, each 30 ft. by 9--10 tons each.
These vessels were fitted with engines of the best construction by Messrs. Pond & Co., and were to be carried across the Nubian desert in plates and sections.
In addition to the steamers were steam saw mills, with a boiler that weighed 8 cwt. in one piece--all of which would have to be transported by camels for several hundred miles across the Nubian desert, and by boats and camels alternately from Alexandria to Gondokoro, a distance of about THREE THOUSAND MILES.
In the description of this enterprise, which terminated in the suppression of the slave trade of the White Nile and the annexation of a large equatorial territory to Egypt, I shall be compelled to expose many abuses which were the result of misgovernment in the distant provinces of Upper Egypt. It must be distinctly understood that his Highness the Khedive was ignorant of such abuses, and that he took prompt and vigorous measures to reform the administration of the Soudan immediately upon receiving information of the misgovernment of that extensive territory. Throughout the expedition his Highness has exhibited a determination to succeed in the suppression of the slave trade in spite of the adverse opinion of the public; therefore, when I expose the abuses that existed, it must be accepted without hesitation that the Khedive would have been the foremost in punishing the authors and in rectifying such abuses had he been aware of their existence.
As a duty to the Khedive, and in justice to myself, I shall describe the principal incidents as they occurred throughout the expedition. The civilized world will form both judge and jury; if their verdict be favourable, I shall have my reward. I can only assure my fellow-men that I have sought earnestly the guidance of the Almighty in the use of the great power committed to me, and I trust that I have been permitted to lay a firm foundation for a good work hereafter.
The success of an expedition depends mainly upon organization. From my former experience in Central Africa, I knew exactly the requirements of the natives, and all the material that would be necessary for the enterprise. I also knew that the old adage of "out of sight out of mind" might be adopted as the Egyptian motto, therefore it would be indispensable to supply myself with everything at the outset, so as to be independent of support hereafter.
The English party consisted of myself and Lady Baker; Lieutenant Julian Alleyne Baker, R.N.; Mr. Edwin Higginbotham, civil engineer; Mr. Wood, secretary; Dr. Joseph Gedge, physician; Mr. Marcopolo, chief storekeeper and interpreter; Mr. McWilliam, chief engineer of steamers; Mr. Jarvis, chief shipwright; together with Messrs. Whitfield, Samson, Hitchman, and Ramsall, shipwrights, boiler-makers, &c. In addition to the above were two servants.
I laid in stores sufficient to last the European party four years.
I provided four galvanized iron magazines, each eighty feet long by twenty in width, to protect all material.
Before I left England I personally selected every article that was necessary for the expedition; thus an expenditure of about 9,000 pounds was sufficient for the purchase of the almost innumerable items that formed the outfit for the enterprise. This included an admirable selection of Manchester goods, such as cotton sheeting, grey calico, cotton and also woollen blankets, white, scarlet, and blue; Indian scarfs, red and yellow; handkerchiefs of gaudy colours, chintz printed; scarlet flannel shirts, serge of colours (blue, red), linen trowsers, &c., &c.
Tools of all sorts--axes, small hatchets, harness bells, brass and copper rods, combs, zinc mirrors, knives, crockery, tin plates, fish-hooks, musical boxes, coloured prints, finger-rings, razors, tinned spoons, cheap watches, &c., &c.
All these things were purchased through Messrs. Silber & Fleming, of Wood Street, Cheapside.
I thus had sufficient clothing for a considerable body of troops if necessary, while the magazines could produce anything from a needle to a crowbar, or from a handkerchief to a boat's sail. It will be seen hereafter that these careful arrangements assured the success of the expedition, as the troops, when left without pay, could procure all they required from the apparently inexhaustible stores of the magazines.
In addition to the merchandise and general supplies, I had several large musical boxes with bells and drums, an excellent magic lantern, a magnetic battery, wheels of life, and an assortment of toys. The greatest wonder to the natives were two large girandoles; also the silvered balls, about six inches in diameter, that, suspended from the branch of a tree, reflected the scene beneath.
In every expedition the principal difficulty is the transport.
"Travel light, if possible," is the best advice for all countries; but in this instance it was simply impossible, as the object of the expedition was not only to convey steamers to Central Africa, but to establish legitimate trade in the place of the nefarious system of pillage hitherto adopted by the so-called White Nile traders. It was therefore absolutely necessary to possess a large stock of goods of all kinds, in addition to the machinery and steel sections of steamers.
I arranged that the expedition should start in three divisions.
Six steamers, varying from 40 to 80-horse power, were ordered to leave Cairo in June, together with fifteen sloops and fifteen diahbeeahs-- total, thirty-six vessels--to ascend the cataracts of the Nile to Khartoum, a distance by river of about 1,450 miles. These vessels were to convey the whole of the merchandise.
Twenty-five vessels were ordered to be in readiness at Khartoum, together with three steamers. The governor-general (Djiaffer Pacha) was to provide these vessels by a certain date, together with the camels and horses necessary for the land transport.
Thus when the fleet should arrive at Khartoum from Cairo, the total force of vessels would be nine steamers and fifty-five sailing vessels, the latter averaging about fifty tons each.
Mr. Higginbotham had the command of the desert transport from Korosko to Khartoum, and to that admirable officer I intrusted the charge of the steamer sections and machinery, together with the command of the English engineers and mechanics.
I arranged to bring up the rear by another route, via Souakim on the Red Sea, from which the desert journey to Berber, on the Nile, N. lat. 17 degrees 37 minutes, is 275 statute miles.
My reason for this division of routes was to insure a quick supply of camels, as much delay would have been occasioned had the great mass of transport been conveyed by one road.
The military arrangements comprised a force of 1,645 troops, including a corps of 200 irregular cavalry, and two batteries of artillery. The infantry were two regiments, supposed to be well selected. The black or Soudani regiment included many officers and men who had served for some years in Mexico with the French army under Marshal Bazaine. The Egyptian regiment turned out to be for the most part convicted felons who had been transported for various crimes from Egypt to the Soudan.
The artillery were rifled mountain guns of bronze, the barrel weighing 230 lbs., and throwing shells of 8-1/4 lbs. The authorities at Woolwich had kindly supplied the expedition with 200 Hale's rockets--three-pounders--and fifty snider rifles, together with 50,000 rounds of snider ammunition. The military force and supplies were to be massed in Khartoum ready to meet me upon my arrival.
I had taken extra precautions in the packing of ammunition and all perishable goods. The teak boxes for snider ammunition, also the boxes of Hale's rockets, were lined and hermetically sealed with soldered tin. The light Manchester goods and smaller articles were packed in strong, useful, painted tin boxes, with locks and hinges, &c. Each box was numbered, and when the lid was opened, a tin plate was soldered over the open face, so that the lid, when closed, locked above an hermetically sealed case. Each tin box was packed in a deal case, with a number to correspond with the box within.
By this arrangement the tin boxes arrived at their destination as good as new, and were quite invaluable for travelling, as they each formed a handy load, and were alike proof against the attacks of insects and bad weather.
I had long waterproof cloaks for the night sentries in rainy climates, and sou'-wester caps; these proved of great service during active operations in the wet season, as the rifles were kept dry beneath the cloaks, and the men were protected from wet and cold when on guard.
All medicines and drugs were procured from Apothecaries' Hall, and were accordingly of the best quality.
The provisions for the troops were dhurra (sorghum vulgare), wheat, rice, and lentils. The supplies from England, and in fact the general arrangements, had been so carefully attended to, that throughout the expedition I could not feel a want, neither could I either regret or wish to have changed any plan that I had originally determined.
For the transport of the heavy machinery across the desert I employed gun carriages drawn by two camels each. The two sections of steamers and of lifeboats were slung upon long poles of fir from Trieste, arranged between two camels in the manner of shafts. Many hundred poles served this purpose, and subsequently, were used at head-quarters as rafters for magazines and various buildings.
The No. 1 steamer of 250 tons had not arrived from England. I therefore left instructions that she was to be forwarded across the desert upon the same principles as adopted for the transport of the other vessels.
I had thrown my whole heart into the expedition; but I quickly perceived the difficulties that I should encounter in the passive resistance of those whose interests would be affected by the suppression of the slave trade. The arrangements that I had made would have insured success, if carried out according to the dates specified. The six steamers and the sailing flotilla from Cairo should have started on 10th June, in order to have ascended the cataracts of Wady Halfah at the period of high water. Instead of this, the vessels were delayed, in the absence of the Khedive in Europe, until 29th August; thus, by the time they reached the second cataract, the river had fallen, and it was impossible to drag the `steamers through the passage until the next season. Thus twelve months were wasted, and I was at once deprived of the invaluable aid of six steamers.
In addition to this difficulty was the fact of inevitable delay necessitated by the festivities attending the opening of the Suez Canal. The Khedive, with his accustomed hospitality, had made immense preparations for the reception of visitors, and every available vessel had been prepared for the occasion.
A train of forty-one railway waggons laden with sections of steamers, machinery, boiler-plates, &c., &c., arrived at Cairo, and were embarked on board eleven hired vessels. With the greatest difficulty I procured a steamer of 140-horse power to tow this flotilla to Korosko, from which spot the desert journey would commence. I obtained this steamer only by personal application to the Khedive.
Baker opens Ismailia with a preface that frames the expedition as a mission to suppress slave hunters and annex the Nile Basin for legitimate commerce. The narrative then proceeds as a chronological account, moving from the initial camp at Tewfikeeyah through river travel and overland marches. A recurring structural pattern emerges: the party halts, negotiates with local chiefs, manages supplies and livestock, and resumes movement. The text is dense with specific details—the number of cattle, the names of horses, the contents of loads—that ground the account in logistical reality.
Movement as Narrative Engine
The expedition’s progress drives the book’s structure. Baker records departures, distances, and obstacles with precision: “At 3 p.m., on 8th February, we started, old Lokko leading the way.” Each stage introduces new terrain, from the White Nile’s channels to the hills beyond Gondokoro. The narrative lingers on the mechanics of travel—loading oxen, managing donkeys, driving herds of cattle and sheep. These passages convey the physical strain of the march and the constant threat of losing animals or supplies. Movement also dictates the rhythm of diplomacy: Baker parleys with local leaders at halts, then resumes the trek. The book’s chapters, titled “The Retreat,” “The Start,” “The Advance South,” mirror this forward thrust, interrupted only by setbacks like the destruction of the Shir detachment.
The Rain-Maker Lokko and the Art of Persuasion
One of the most vivid episodes involves the rain-maker Lokko, whom Baker wins over with wine and a German horn. The scene unfolds as a careful negotiation: Baker gives him a glass of wine, then a second, and presents the horn as a gift. Lokko responds by blowing the horn, grinning, and declaring himself a great sheik. Baker’s description is precise: “He blew the horn!—again, and again! He grinned till the tears ran down his eyes.” The exchange reveals Baker’s method of securing allies through a blend of diplomacy, humor, and material inducement. Lokko’s role as guide and rain-controller becomes a running motif; he waves peeled sticks at clouds and blows the horn to dispel rain. This episode exemplifies how Baker weaves character sketches into the travelogue, using specific gestures and dialogue to animate his account.
The Human and Animal Cargo
Baker’s party is a mobile community of people and animals. He itemizes the company: his wife rides “Greedy Grey,” he rides the chestnut “Jamoos,” Lieutenant Baker mounts “Gazelle,” and Colonel Abd-el-Kader rides the “Zafteer.” Ten donkeys carry officers’ effects, twenty-two boatmen carry boxes, and a rear guard drives a thousand cows and five hundred sheep. The cattle are in charge of the Bari interpreter Morgian. Boys and girls carry loads. This inventory is not mere cataloguing; it underscores the expedition’s scale and the constant labor of moving supplies. When an ox kicks off its load and bolts, the servant Monsoor must shoulder the burden. These details accumulate to show the precarious balance of the march—any loss of an animal or misstep could disrupt the entire operation.
Diplomacy and Distrust Along the Route
Baker’s encounters with local leaders are marked by a mix of negotiation and wariness. He notes that Bedden “had behaved very badly, but he had got the worst of it.” Lokko assures him that the Baris will not molest the party, but the threat of hostility lingers. Baker relies on interpreters like Morgian and on gifts—wine, a horn—to secure cooperation. The text does not present these interactions as straightforward; there is always an undercurrent of tension. Baker’s questions to Lokko about keeping rain away during the journey reveal his concern for the soldiers’ kits getting wet, a practical worry that blends with the supernatural claims of the rain-maker. The narrative thus moves between pragmatic logistics and the uncertain terrain of local politics, where alliances are fragile and reputations precede the party.
Readers should attend to the interplay between Baker’s official mission—suppressing the slave trade—and the day-to-day realities of moving a large, multi-ethnic party through unfamiliar territory. The book’s strength lies in its accumulation of concrete detail: the names of horses, the weight of loads, the gestures of a rain-maker. These specifics anchor the broader narrative of imperial ambition and make the expedition tangible. Approach Ismailia as a document of encounter, where every march, negotiation, and inventory reveals the texture of 19th-century African exploration.
Years of shelving have taught me how two volumes can share a quiet kinship. Baker’s march through Ismailia feels like an endless negotiation with landscape and people, each camp a small held breath. I think of that same patient rhythm in Station Amusements in New Zealand — A Reader’s Guide — both books turn waiting into a gentle art, finding company in the intervals. A lovely symmetry.
Oliver Torres
1 month agoWyatt Walker
1 week agoNoah Martinez
4 weeks agoCharlotte Nelson
2 weeks ago-
Mary Quinn - 1 month ago
Ismailia is a thrilling sequel to Stanley's exploits in Africa, detailing his expedition to rescue Emin Pasha. The book is packed with breathtaking descriptions of the Nile and the Congo, and Stanley's perseverance shines through. It's a remarkable testament to human endurance and the complexities of 19th-century geopolitics. A must-read for armchair explorers and history buffs. -
Joshua Hardy - 4 weeks ago
This long-winded memoir is more about Stanley's ego than the expedition itself. It's filled with tedious descriptions and glosses over the darker aspects of the journey, such as the treatment of porters. The writing is dry and lacks the excitement one would expect from such an adventure. Not recommended for casual readers. -
Benjamin Justin Graham - 1 week ago
Stanley's account of the Emin Pasha relief expedition is detailed and informative, but it can be overwhelming due to its sheer length and exhaustive detail. The book offers a unique perspective on colonial Africa, though Stanley's bias and the controversial aspects of the expedition are undeniable. Worth reading for its historical value, but not without its flaws.
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Mia Smith
3 weeks ago