Miscellanea Curiosa, Vol. 3 containing a collection of curious travels, voyages, and natural histories of countries as they have been delivered in to the Royal Society — A Reader’s Guide

at was almost intolerable. Having gained the top, we were met by an Officer and some Soldiers, who had us into the Castle, the middlemost of the three, which are built along that Promontory for the Security of the Coasts, and entertained us with Wine, Grapes, and Marmalade. They told us, that a Squadron of English Men of War sailed by the day before. We here met with two Vessels belonging to _Dartmouth_, laden with Fish from _Newfoundland_, bound for _Alicant_. All along the Coasts, at the distance of about two or three Leagues, are several Watch-towers built to give notice of Pirates.

Becalmed for the most part these two or three days.

5. In the Morning we weathered the Point of _Cadiz_, and came to an Anchor in the _Bay of Bulls_, about half a League from the great _Porgoe_; and in the Afternoon went on shore. We were entertained by the _English_ Consul, and carried by him to view the Fortifications, which are esteemed to be as regular as any in _Christendom_; built in the same place where the Town had been attacked formerly by the _English_, under the Conduct of the Earl of _Essex_ in the Reign of Q. _Elizabeth_. Plays are usually here, as in other parts of _Spain_, acted on a _Sunday_. During the time of our stay, was represented the History of the Patience of _Job_, the Devil brought upon the Stage, tempting _Job_'s Wife in a drolling way, which caused great Laughter and Merriment among the Spectators. At _Malaga_, as the Merchants told us, the _Sunday_ before we arrived there, was acted the _Schism of England_ in the time of King _Henry_ the Eighth, whom the _Spaniards_ will not yet forgive, for Divorcing himself from Q. _Catherine_, their Country-Woman.

9. We sailed from _Cadiz_.

10. This Afternoon we were forced to Anchor, not far from _Cape Spartel_ or _Sprat_, as the Seamen call it, not being able to weather the Point.

11. This day we came to an Anchor in _Tangier-Bay_, with Sir _Thomas Allen_'s Squadron.

_Tangier_ lies within the Entrance into the _Strait_ of the _Mediterranean_, in the Latitude of about 35°, 36´. It is situated in the bottom of a Bay, and is built on the side of the Hill, overlooking the Sea, encompassed with high Walls to the Land-ward, and commanded by a strong Castle. The Heats would be very troublesome but for the Sea-breezes which cool and fan the Air. In the Castle I met with a _Roman_ Monument, erected to the Honour of _P. Belius_, a great Officer and Souldier in _Trajan_'s time; who, among his other Titles, is there stiled, PPO. FIG. MAURITANIAE. TINGITANAE: which since has been taken away, and presented to the University of _Oxon_ by Sir _Hugh Cholmondley_, and now serves to adorn the _Area_ about the _Theatre_.

The _English_ have two Churches here, (though they only make use of one, the other being reserved against all Accidents) both of them very neat and convenient; though not to be compared with the Church of the _Portuguese_, retained still, according to the Articles of Agreement, when the King of _Portugal_ made over the Right and Title, and gave the Possession of _Tangier_ to the Crown of _England_, by the Canons Regulars, belonging to it, which is very stately, and adorn'd with rich Images, and supported by Marble Pillars. Toward one end of the _English_ Church, just by the Vestiary, which had been formerly a _Turkish_ Mosch, and afterward the Chappel of a Convent of _Dominicans_, is a Monumental Stone-Table in _Arabick_ Characters, containing an account of the Houses, Lands, and other Revenues belonging to it, set up in the 743 year of the _Hegira_, that is, of Christ 1341. The Mole is in good forwardness, they having gained above 200 yards in the Sea, in order to the making of a good and safe Harbour for Ships to ride in, which lye open to Wind and Waves; the outward side to the Seaward somewhat sloping. The Garrison is in so good a posture of Defence, that they defy _Taffiletta_ and all his Forces. Here we met with great Civilities from Colonel _Norwood_, Deputy-Governour, and the Gentlemen belonging to the Garrison. Sir _Harry Mildmay_ and Mr. _Goodland_, two of King _Charles_ the First his Judges, are here; but who have the Liberty of the Town. Now, at our being here, come in several _Moors_ from _Arzilla_, and among the rest, the Father of one of _Gayland_'s Wives, to get a Passage for _Algiers_.

Old _Tangier_ lyes at some little distance, where they find very frequently in digging several pieces of _Roman_ Coin. But for the above-mentioned, and the other Curiosities and Antiquities of _Tangier_, of which I forbear to make mention, from the imperfect and hasty Observations of two days, the greatest part of which being taken up by the Entertainment of our obliging Country-men, you may consult with great pleasure and satisfaction, a little Book called _The present State of Tangier_, written by a very ingenious Gentleman, and printed in the Year 1676.

There is a vast _draught_ of _water_ poured continually out of the _Atlantick_ into the _Mediterranean_, the mouth or entrance of which between _Cape Spartel_ or _Sprat_, as the _sea-men_ call it, and _Cape Trafalgar_, may be near 7 leagues wide, the _current_ setting strong into it, and not losing its force till it runs as far as _Malaga_, which is about 20 leagues within the _Streights_. By the benefit of this _Current_, tho' the wind be contrary, if it does not over-blow, _Ships_ easily turn into the _gut_, as they term the _narrow passage_, which is about 20 miles in length. At the end of which are two Towns, _Gibraltar_ on the coast of _Spain_, which gives denomination to the _Streight_, and _Ceuta_ on the _Barbary_ coast: at which places _Hercules_ is supposed to have set up his _Pillars_. What becomes of this great quantity of water poured in this way, and of that, which runs from the _Euxine_ into the _Bosporous_ and _Propontis_, and is carried at last through the _Hellespont_ into the _Ægæan_ or _Archipelago_, is a curious _speculation_, and has exercised the wit and understanding of _Philosophers_ and _Navigators_. For there is no sensible rising of the _water_ all along the _Barbary Coast_, even down to _Alexandria_, the land beyond _Tripoli_, and that of _Ægypt_, lying very low, and easily overflowable. They observe indeed, that the water rises 3 feet, or 3 feet and an half, in the _gulph_ of _Venice_, and as much, or very near as much, all along the _Riviera_ of _Genoa_, as far as the river _Arno_: but this rather adds to the wonder.

I here omit to speak at large of the several _Hypotheses_ which have been invented to solve this difficulty: such as _subterraneous vents_, cavities and indraughts, _exhalations_ by the _Sun-beams_, the running out of the water on the _African side_, as if there were a kind of circular motion of the water, and that it only flowed in upon the _Christian_ shore: which latter I look upon as a meer fancy, and contrary to all observation.

My conjecture is, that there is an _under-Current_, whereby as great a quantity of water is carried out, as comes flowing in. To confirm which, besides what I have said above about the difference of tides in the _offing_, and at the _Shore_ in the _Downs_, which necessarily supposes an _under-Current_, I shall present you with an instance of the like nature in the _Baltick Sound_, as I received it from an able Seaman, who was at the making of the tryal.

He told me, that being there in one of the _King's_ Frigats, they went with their _Pinnace_ into the _middle stream_, and were carried violently by the _Current_: that soon after they sank a _bucket_ with a large _Cannon_ bullet to a certain _depth_ of water, which gave check to the boats motion, and sinking it still lower and lower, the _boat_ was driven a-head to wind-ward against the upper _Current_: the _current_ aloft, as he added, not being above 4 or 5 _fathom_ deep, and that the lower the bucket was let fall, they found the _under-Current_ the stronger. I designed to have made the _Experiment_ in the _Streights-Channel_; but both times I past, the Easterly wind blew so hard, that there was no putting out the boat with any safety; nor indeed at those times had we any leisure for such a _Curiosity_; which those, who liv'd at _Tangier_, might have tryed without any difficulty or danger.

This conjecture, how likely or unlikely soever, will stand or fall according to the certainty of the _Observations_, which shall be made there, which I will endeavour to procure in order to the further establishment, or utter overthrow of it.

13. We weighed out of _Tangier_ and turned into the _Strait_, though against the Wind. The distance between _Gibraltar_ Cape, which gives name to the _Straits_, and is joyned to the Continent of _Spain_ and _Ceuta_ a well-built and strongly fortified Town, lying under the Hill _Alybe_, called so by the _Greeks_, which the Seamen commonly call, as do some _Spanish_ Writers, _Apes-hill_, from the great number of Apes which used formerly to haunt there, (at which places _Hercules_ is feigned to have set up his Pillars) may be about six Leagues; tho' both Lands lying very high (for we saw the Clouds much below them) it does not appear in the middle of the Current, out of a tall Ship, scarce half so broad.

14. Little Wind stirring.

15. A great Mist all the Sea over, so that we could scarce see three lengths of the Ship, which began to vanish in the Afternoon; and than we descryed the _Cape of Malaga_ at about four Leagues distance; and came to an Anchor that Night. The City lies under a high Hill, and is the Seat of a Bishop, who is at this time a Natural Son of King _Philip_ the Fourth, of the Order of St. _Dominic_. Here the Merchants told us, that it had not rained for seven Months together, except a day or two for an Hour: and that the _Algerines_, who were then breaking with us, had not been able to have set a Fleet to Sea about two years before, if they had not been furnished with Masts from _England_; and that they were now in Expectation of another Ship laden with the same, notwithstanding the Rupture, which was as good as began. I only make a Query, Whether _Jews_ or _English_ Men were the Freighters?

16. The next Morning the Governour immediately returned our Salute Gun for Gun: soon after we weighed from _Malaga_ Road, the Weather very hot. Some Rain fell at Night, though very moderately. In the Evening, after we had sailed about eighteen Leagues, we were becalm'd. The Sea being quiet, we saw a great number of _Tortoises_ swimming above Water, several _Bottle-noses_, fish of about three yards long, and very thick, and Hawks flying over to the _Barbary_ Coast. The Hills of _Granada_ were seen plainly by us, though at a great distance.

The Wind coming Easterly, we kept at Sea, beating and plying to and again for these four days, scarce gaining sixteen Leagues of our way, and were forc'd to come to an Anchor in the _Bay of Adera_, where there is a strong Cittadel, about thirty four or thirty five Leagues from _Malaga_.

21. We passed by _Cape de Gata_: but the Levant wind still blowing, having continued almost in that Point for above two Months, as we computed from what they had told us at _Tangier_, we could make but little progress in our Voyage.

25. Between three and four of the Clock in the Morning the Tornado's began to blow, and the Wind violent for the time, with such continued Flashes of Lightning for several hours, as that the whole Sky seemed to be on fire, intermixed with terrible Claps of Thunder, after which followed great showers of Rain.

25. The Wind still contrary, we descryed _Cape St. Martin_ at about fifteen Leagues distance. Tacking about and standing off to Seaward, next Morning 27. we found that we had lost about three Leagues of our way.

28. We were athwart _Orlando's Gap_ within two Leagues of the Shore, _Cape St. Martin_ bearing off us _N._ by _W._ The Wind now still; but a swelling Sea coming from the Westward, which is usual before a Wind, which drives the Water before it.

On _Michaelmas-day_ we were up with the Island _Ivica_, or _Ivise_, as the Mariners call it, and the Wind blowing fair, we stood our Course; and the next day at Noon we made the _Island Majorca_, situate over against the Kingdom of _Valentia_, and came to an Anchor in the _Bay_ of the City, being forced in hither for want of fresh Water. In the Afternoon the Boat was sent on shore; but the Vice-Roy would not give us Prattick, not bringing a Patent from _Malaga_.

_Octob. 1._ The Secretary was sent with the King's Pass to the Vice-Roy to demand Prattick, who presently summoned the Officers of the _Sanita_. After long Debates and Delays they consented, and came to the _Mole_ to receive him. He went directly to the Governour to acquaint him, that we were ready to Salute the City with what number of Guns he pleased, if he would engage upon his Honour to give us as many. He replied, that he would give us three for five; and wondered, that we being but a single Ship, should make such a Demand. The Secretary told him, That we were to be treated as an Admiral, having a Flag on our Maintop; and that the Governour of _Malaga_ had done it. To this he said, That _Majorca_ was a Kingdom, that he was the King's Representative, and that by Reason of the Miscarriage of his Predecessor, when Monsieur _de Beaufort_, the _French_ Admiral was there, he had received strict Orders from _Madrid_ not to do the like. The Secretary replied, That we had an Ambassador on board, and had as strict Orders, and should answer as severely for the Breach of them. His last Answer was, That we might, with our Sails loose, keep before the Town, till we had furnished our selves with what we wanted. Upon receiving this Message, the Ambassador dispatched away one _Joseph Gabriel Cortez_, a _Spaniard_, but employed by the _English_ Merchants trading to that Island, then on board our Ship, to acquaint him, That when we were ready to go away, we would loose our Sails, and not before. We landed within the _Mole_; the Walk upon it about four or five Yards broad; at the Extremity of which is a very large and stately Gate, which leads into the City. We went into the great Church, somewhat wider than _Westminster-Abbey_, but darkish within: the Portal very magnificent, adorned with several Marble Statues in Niches one over another. The High Altar very plain and unadorned: but others extraordinary rich and glorious. Not far from the City are several Mills to grind their Olives, Oyl being the great Commodity of the Island.

2. The next Morning we weighed, without taking any kind of notice of the Town, sailing all along in sight of the Island, which presented us with a pleasing and delightful Prospect; the Valleys, lying under the Hills, fruitful of Wine and Corn. The whole Island is judged to be about sixty Leagues in Compass, and in length about fifteen: which we sailed from the Westermost Point, where lies the Isle _Dragovera_, at a very little distance to the Eastermost, where there is built a small Fort. To the S. S. E. lie several little Islands, called the _Cabreas_; between which and _Majorca_ we steered.

3. We were athwart _Port Maon_ in _Minorca_; a fine level Country, having but one Hill in it N. W. by W. as it bore off us. In the Evening the Wind very scant.

4. This day, as yesterday, excessive hot.

5. In the Afternoon we descryed the Main Land of _Provence_.

6. We were over against the Islands _Hieres_ and the Highland of _Thoulon_.

7, 8. These two Days becalmed; and the Sea extraordinary smooth.

9. We were over against the Westermost part of the _Alpes_, which we distinctly saw at about twenty Leagues distance, and appeared far higher than the Hills of _Granada_.

10. We sailed by _Final_ and _Ventimiglia_.

12. We came in the Morning to an Anchor over against the _Mole_, and not far from the Lantern in _Genoa_. Having obtained Prattick of the _Maestri della Sanita_, after a little demur about the Salute, the Senate being assembled, and some of them protesting upon their Honours, and ready to produce their Registers, that they never saluted the Ship wherein was an Ambassador of _France_ or _Spain_, as not taking any notice of the Person who did bear that Character, 'till they had first intimation, that the Ship was arrived in their Port by its saluting the Town. It was agreed that the Ship should Salute the Town with eleven Guns, which they were to answer, as they did, with an equal number: and after a little pause, they saluted the Ambassador with nineteen more, which was answered with as many. After this, the Duke and Senate sent the Master of the Ceremonies to wait upon the Ambassador: who going away, returned soon after with a Present of Calves, Fowl, Wine, Sweetmeats, _&c._ and acquainted his Lordship, that they had deputed six of their Gentlemen to Complement him, and wait upon him; which Civility he thought fit to refuse, desiring to be _Incognito_. But however, going ashore, he was welcomed by the _Illustrissimi Signiori_, the _Durazzo's_, two Brothers, the elder of which had been Ambassador for the Republick, in the Court of _England_, and the other at _Constantinople_, and by them carried to see the _Villas_ out of Town. The figure of _Genoa_ is Semicircular, beginning from the Lantern Westward, lying under an high Hill, upon the rising of which the several Houses, built of Marble, afford a very fine Prospect, and add much to the Beauty and Glory of the place. _Strada nuova_ perchance is the most stately Street in the whole World. The new Church of the _Annunciata_, built by the _Lomellini_, where a thousand may go up the stairs abreast at the same time, for curious Painting, rich Altars, and exactness of Architecture, incomparable. The _Duome_ also and the Church of the _Theatins_ very stately and curious. Other matters I purposely omit.

14. In the Evening we set Sail from _Genoa_.

Becalmed for the most part these three Days, though helped somewhat forward by the Breezes that blew off the shore after Sun set.

18. In the Afternoon we made the Island _Gorgonia_, about nine Leagues from _Livorne_; a little round Island, with a Castle on the top.

19. In the Morning we came to an Anchor in _Livorne_ Road, about a Mile from the Town: the Road large and secure, especially to the Northward. The Ambassador keeps on Board, the Governour refusing to Salute the Ship first, though he had formerly saluted the _French_; pretending that every Convoy might carry a Flag; and alledging that his Master, the Grand Duke, was as great and absolute, as the Republick of _Genoa_: and that they had rather throw themselves upon the King of _England_, than do a thing which might prove of such an ill Consequence. Sir _John Finch_, his Majesty's Resident, together with Sir _Thomas Baines_, came from _Florence_ to Complement the Ambassador, and immediately dispatched away a Courier to the Grand Duke about the Salute; who referred the whole Affair to the Governor: and he making a Protest that he was ready to pay all the respect which was due to the Ambassador's Character and Quality, upon the fore-mentioned Pretensions, six days, after our arrival, absolutely refused to Salute the Ship first.