Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, Vol. I. — A Reader’s Guide

Embarcation.--Fellow-passengers.--A Gale at Sea.--Arrival at Sisal.--Orinthological Specimens.--Merida.--Fete of San Cristoval.--The Lottery.--A Scene of Confusion.--Principle of the Game.--Passion for Gambling.--A deformed Indian.

Housekeeping.--Description of a Bull-ring.--A Bull-fight.--Spectators.--Brutal Torments inflicted on the Bulls.--Serious Accidents.--A noble Beast.--An exciting Scene.--Victims to Bullfighting.--Danger and Ferocity of Bull-fights.--Effects on moral Character.--Grand Mass.--A grand Procession.--The Alameda.--Calesas.--A Concert, and its Arrangements.--Fete of Todos Santos.--A singular Custom.--An Incident.

An Old Friend.--Brief Account of Yucatan.--Early Voyages of Discovery.--Columbus.--De Solis and Pinzon.--Expedition of Cordova.--Voyages of Grijalva.--Expedition of Cortez.--Mission of Montejo, who receives a Grant from Charles V.--Discoveries, Conquests, and Sufferings of Montejo and his Companions.--Efforts to convert the Natives.--Contreras.--Farther Particulars relating to the Conquest of Yucatan.

Political State of Yucatan.--Alliance with Texas.--Presentation to the Governor.--His Character and Personal Appearance.--A Cordial Reception.--An Arrival of Strangers.--A Citizen of the World.--Another old Acquaintance.--Population of Merida.--Climate.--General Aspect of Merida.--An interesting Edifice.--Mode of naming Streets.--Sculptured Figures.--Churches.--Franciscan Convent.--A Memorial of the Past.--Ruined Cities of America.--Former Conclusions confirmed.

Daguerreotype Apparatus.--Set up as Ladies' Daguerreotype Portrait Takers.--Preparations.--A pretty young Lady to begin with.--Preliminaries.--A Chapter of Contingencies.--Success of the first Experiment.--Other successful Experiments.--A Change of Fortune.--Give up this Business.--An Incident.--Take up the Practice of Surgery.--Operation for Strabismus.--Details.--First Subject.--A great Gathering of Squint Eyes.--A troublesome Patient.--A little Hero.--Extraordinary Instance of Fortitude;--A Military Patient.--A Female Patient--Practice of Surgery abandoned.--Instability of Fame.

Departure from Merida.--Map of Yucatan.--Timucui.--Tekoh.--Human Skulls and Bones.--Church of Tekoh.--Convent.--A revolting Spectacle.--View from the Top of the Church.--Cura of Tekoh.--Journey continued.--A curious Basin.--Telchaquillo.--A subterraneous Well.--An extraordinary Cave.--Hacienda of Joaquin.--Ruins of Mayapan.--A remarkable Mound.--Curious sculptured Remains.--Another extraordinary Cave.--A circular Edifice.--A double Row of Columns.--Ranges of Mounds.--Arches.--Derivation of the Word Yucatan.--Ancient City of Mayapan.

An Accident.--Journey continued.--Hacienda of Xcanchakan.--An Indian Dance.--Whipping an Indian.--Hacienda of Mucuyche.--A Bath in a Senote.--Hacienda of San Jose.--Arrival at Uxmal.--First Sight of the Ruins.--Changes since last Visit.--House of the Dwarf.--House of the Nuns.--Casa del Gobernador.--Residence at the Ruins.--Unpromising Appearances.--How to make a Fire.--Instance of Perseverance.--Arrival of Luggage on the Backs of Indians.--First Night at Uxmal.

Perplexities.--Household Wants.--Indian Mode of boiling Eggs.--Clearings.--A valuable Addition.--Description of the Ruins.--Casa del Gobernador.--Hieroglyphics.--Ornaments over the Doorways.--Ground Plan.--Doorways.--Apartments.--Great Thickness of the back Wall.--A Breach made in the Wall.--Prints of a Red Hand.--Sculptured Beam of Hieroglyphics.--Wooden Lintels.--Loss of Antiquities by the Burning of Mr. Catherwood's Panorama.--Terraces.--A curious Stone.--Circular Mound.--Discovery of a Sculptured Monument.--Square Stone Structure.--Sculptured Heads.--Staircase.--House of the Turtles.

Journey to Jalacho.--Execrable Road.--Sight of Ruins at Sennisacal.--A motley Multitude.--Village of Becal.--The Cura.--Breakfast.--Ruins.--Arrival at Jalacho.--A great Fair.--Fete of Santiago.--Miracles.--Figure of St. James.--Bull-fight and Bull-fighters.--Horse-market.--Scenes in the Plaza.--Gambling.--Primitive Circulating Medium.--A Memorial of Home.--A Ball.--Search for Ruins.--Hacienda of Sijoh.--Mounds of Ruins.--Remarkable Stones.--A long Edifice.--Hacienda of Tankuche.--More Ruins.--A plastered Wall covered with Paintings.--Annoyance from Garrapatas.--Return to the Village.--Ball.--Fireworks.--Condition of the Indians.

Sunday.--Mass.--A grand Procession.--Intoxicated Indians.--Set out for Maxcanu.--A Caricoche.--Scenery.--Arrival at Maxcanu.--Cave of Maxcanu.--Threading a Labyrinth.--An Alarm.--An abrupt Termination.--Important Discovery.--Labyrinth not subterraneous.--More Mounds.--Journey continued.--Grand View.--Another Mound.--An Accident.--Village of Opocheque.--View from the Sierra.--More Ruins.--Return to Uxmal.--Change of Quarters.--An Addition to the Household.--Beautiful Scene.

Superintending Indians.--The Storm El Norte.--Arrival of Don Simon.--Subterraneous Chambers.---Discovery of broken Pottery and a Terra Cotta Vase.--Great Number of these Chambers.--Their probable Uses.--Harvest of the Maise Crop.--Practical Views.--System of Agriculture in Yucatan.--Planting of Corn.--A primitive Threshing Machine.--News from Home.--More Practice in Surgery.--A rude Bedstead.--A Leg Patient.--An Arm Patient.--Increasing Sickness on the Hacienda.--Death of an Indian Woman.--A Campo Santo.--Digging a Grave.--An Indian Funeral.

Means by which the City was supplied with Water.--Aguadas.--A delightful Bathing-place.--Manner of Living at the Ruins--How to roast a Pig.--Nameless Mound.--Excavations made in it.--Great Exertions.--A bitter Disappointment.--An Attack of Fever.--Visit from the Cura of Ticul.--Departure for Ticul.--A painful Journey.--Arrival at the Convent.--Arrival of Dr. Cabot, ill with Fever.--Gloomy Prospects.--A simple Remedy for Fever.--Aspect of Ticul.--The Church.--Funeral Urn.--Monument and Inscription.--Convent.--Character of the Cura Carillo.--The Date of the Construction of the Convent unknown.--Probably built with the Materials furnished by the Ruins of former Cities.--Archives of the Convent.

Another ruined City.--Relics.--Ruins of San Francisco.--Proved to be those of the Aboriginal City of the name Ticul.--A beautiful Vase.--Search for a Sepulchre.--Discovery of a Skeleton and Vase.--An Indian Needle.--These Cities not built by Descendants of Egyptians.--Their Antiquity not very great.--Examination of the Skeleton by Doctor Morton, and his Opinion.--Mummies from Peru.--These Cities built by the Ancestors of the present Race of Indians.--The Seybo Tree.--The Campo Santo.--A quiet Village.

Departure from Ticul.--The Sierra.--Nohcacab.--Ruins of Nohpat.--Return to Uxmal.--The Campo Santo.--Work of Mr. Waldeck.--General Description of the Ruins.--Two ruined Edifices.--Great Stone Rings.--House of the Nuns.--Dimensions, &c.---Courtyard.--Facades.--A lofty Edifice.--Complicated Ornament.--Painted Facades.--Sculptured Doorways.--House of the Birds.--Remains of Painting.--An Arch.--House of the Dwarf.--Building loaded with Ornaments.--Long and narrow Structure.--Tasteful Arrangement of Ornaments.--Human Sacrifices.--House of the Pigeons.--Range of Terraces called the Campo Santo.---House of the Old Woman.--Circular Mound of Ruins.--Wall of the City.--Close of Description.--Title Papers of Uxmal.--Of the Antiquity of Uxmal.

Attacks from Fever and Ague.--Final Departure from Uxmal.--Newyear's Day.--Fate of Chaipa Chi.--Painful Journey.--Chetulish.--Arrival at Nohcacab.--Concourse of Indians.--A Casa Real.--Plaza.--Improvements.--The Church.--A Noria, or Well.--Municipal Elections.--The Democratic Principle.--Installation of Alcaldes.--Illness of the Cura of Ticul.--Set out for Ticul--Intoxicated Carriers.--Accident.--Arrival at Ticul.--A wandering Physician.--Changed Appearance of the Cura.--Return to Nohcacab.--Take up Quarters in the Convent.--Ancient Town of Nohcacab.--Ruined Mounds.--Ruins of Xcoch.--A Mysterious Well.--Fine Grove.--Circular Cavity.--Mouth of the Well.--Exploration of its Passages.--Uses of the Well.--Return to the Village.--Fatal Accident.--A House of Mourning.--Ceremony of El Velorio.

Ruins of Nohpat.--A lofty Mound.--Grand View.--Sculptured Human Figure.--Terraces.--Huge sculptured Figure.--Other Figures.--Skull and Cross-bones.--Situation of Ruins.--Journey to Kabah.--Thatched Huts.--Arrival at the Ruins.--Return to the Village.--Astonishment of the Indians.--Valuable Servant--Festival of Corpus Alma.--A plurality of Saints.--How to put a Saint under Patronage.--A Procession.--Fireworks.--A Ball.---Excess of Female Population.--A Dance.

Ruins of Kabah.--General Description.--Plan of the Ruins.--Great Teocalis.--Ruined Apartments.--Grand View.--Terrace and Building.--Ranges of Buildings.--Hieroglyphics.--A rich Facade.--Wooden Lintels.--Singular Structures.--Apartments, &c.--Rankness of Tropical Vegetation.--Edifice called the Cocina.--Majestic pile of Buildings.--Apartments, &c.--A solitary Arch.--A Succession of ruined Buildings.--Apartments, &c.--Prints of the Red Hand.--Sculptured Lintel.--Instruments used by the Aboriginals for Carving Wood.--Ruined Structure.--Ornament in Stucco.--Great ruined Building.--Curious Chamber, &c.--Sculptured Jambs.--Another Witness for these ruined Cities.--Last Visit to Kabah.--Its recent Discovery.--A great Charnel House.--Funeral Procession.--A Ball by Daylight.--The Procession of the Candles.--Closing Scene.

1. Frontispiece. 2. A ruined Mound. 3. Sculptured Figures. 4. Circular Edifice. 5. Hacienda of Xcanchakan. 6. Gateway at Mucuyche. 7. A Senote. 8. Plan of Uxmal. 9. Ornament over a Doorway. 10. Ornament called the Elephant's Trunk. 11. Elephant's Trunk in Profile. 12. Southern End of Casa del Gobernador. 13. Ground Plan of Casa del Gobernador. 14. Double-headed Lynx. 15. House of the Turtles. 16. Aguada at Uxmal. 17. Ticul Vase. 18. Seybo Tree. 19. Plan of the Monjas. 20. Part of the Facade of the Monjas. 21. Entwined Serpents over a Doorway. 22. View from the Nuns. 23. East Side of the Courtyard of the Monjas. 24. Southeast Corner of the Monjas. 25. Interior of an Apartment. 26. House of the Birds. 27. West Front of the House of the Dwarf. 28. East Front of the House of the Dwarf. 29. Front of the Casa de Palamos. 30. A Noria, or Well. 31. Mound at Xcoch. 32. Mound at Nohpat. 33. Colossal Stone Figure. 34. Sculptured Stone Figure. 35. Skull and Crossbones. 36. Street in the Village of Nohcacab. 37. Plan of Kabah. 38. Building (Casa No. 1). 39. Portion of a richly-sculptured Facade. 40. Interior of an Apartment. 41. Rankness of Tropical Vegetation. 42. Building (Casa No. 2). 43. Building (Casa No. 3). 44. Triumphal Arch. 45. Carved Wooden Beam. 46. Stucco Ornament. 47. Sculptured Stone Jamb. 48. Sculptured Stone Jamb. 49. Charnel House and Convent. 50. Skull. 51. Triangular Arch. 52. Gothic Arch. 53. Cyclopean Arch. 54. Arch used by the ancient American Builders.

INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN YUCATAN.

Embarcation.--Fellow-passengers.--A Gale at Sea.--Arrival at Sisal.--Ornithological Specimens.--Merida.--Fete of San Cristoval.--The Lottery.--A Scene of Confusion.--Principle of the Game.--Passion for Gambling.--A deformed Indian.

The reader of my "Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan," may remember that the researches of Mr. Catherwood and myself in the last-mentioned country were abruptly terminated by the illness of the former. During our short sojourn in Yucatan, we received vague, but, at the same time, reliable intelligence of the existence of numerous and extensive cities, desolate and in ruins which induced us to believe that the country presented a greater field for antiquarian research and discoveries than any we had yet visited. Under these circumstances, it was a severe hardship that we were compelled to leave it, and our only consolation in doing so was the hope of being able to return, prepared to make a thorough exploration of this unknown and mysterious region. In about a year we found ourselves in a condition to do so; and on Monday, the ninth of October, we put to sea on board the bark Tennessee, Scholefield master, for Sisal, the port from which we had sailed on our return to the United States.

The Tennessee was a down-Easter of two hundred and sixty tons burden, turned out apparently from one of those great factories where ships are built by the mile and chopped off to order, but stout, strong, well manned and equipped.

Her cargo was assorted for the Yucatan market, and consisted of a heavy stratum of iron at the bottom; midway were miscellanies, among which were cotton, muskets, and two hundred barrels of turpentine; and on top, within reach of the hatches, were six hundred kegs of gunpowder.

We had a valuable addition to our party in Dr. Cabot, of Boston, who accompanied us as an amateur, particularly as an ornithologist. Besides him, our only fellow-passenger was Mr. Camerden, who went out as supercargo.

The first morning out we woke with an extraordinary odour of turpentine, giving us apprehensions that a barrel had sprung a leak, which, by means of the cotton, might use up our gunpowder before it came to the hands of its consignee. This odour, however, was traced to a marking-pot, which quieted our apprehensions.

On the evening of the fourth day we had a severe thunder-storm. This was an old acquaintance of ours in the tropics, but one which at that time we were not disposed to welcome very cordially. Peals of thunder broke and crashed close over our heads, lightning flashed across the dark vault of the heavens, lighting up the surface of the water, and making fearfully visible our little vessel, tossing and pitching, a mere speck in immensity; and at times an angry ray darted toward the horizon, as if expressly to ignite our gunpowder. We discussed, though rather disjointedly, the doctrine of conductors and non-conductors, and advised the captain to put a few links of a chain cable round the mainmast, and carry the end of it over the side. We had some consolation in thinking that six hundred kegs were no worse than sixty, and that six would do our business; but, in fact, at the moment, we were very much of opinion that lightning and gunpowder were the only dangers of the sea. The night, however, wore through, and morning brought with it the usual, and, unhappily, almost the only change in those who go down to the sea in ships--forgetfulness of past danger.

On the evening of the seventeenth we passed, with a gentle breeze, the narrow passage known as the Hole in the Wall, and before morning we were lying broadside to the wind, and almost flying before it. The gale was terrific; nothing could stand upright to windward, and the sea was portentous. The captain sat under the quarter rail, watching the compass, and turning anxiously to the misty quarter of the heavens from which the winds seemed let loose. At breakfast large drops of sweat stood on his forehead; and though at first unwilling to admit it even to himself, we discovered that we were really in danger. We were driving, as fast as the wind could send us, upon the range of sunken rocks known as Abaco reef. Directly under our lee was the worst part of the whole reef, marked on the chart "Dangerous rocky shore." Unless the gale abated or the wind hauled, in eight or ten hours we must strike. I must confess I saw but little hope of a change, and this rocky reef was but a few feet under water, and twenty miles distant from terra firma. If the vessel struck, she must go to pieces; nothing made by man's hands could stand against the fury of the sea, and every moment we were nearer destruction. We sat with the chart before us, looking at it as a sentenced convict might look at an advertisement of the time fixed for his execution. The sunken rocks seemed to stand out horribly on the paper; and though every glance at the sea told us that with daylight no human strength could prevail against it, it added to our uncomfortable feelings to know that it would be nearly night when the crisis arrived. We had but one consolation--there were no women or children on board. All were able-bodied men, capable of doing all that men could do in a struggle for life. But, fortunately for the reader of these pages, to say nothing of the relief to ourselves, at one o'clock the wind veered; we got on a little canvass; the good ship struggled for her life; by degrees she turned her back upon danger, and at night we were again on our way rejoicing.

On the twenty-seventh we furled sails off the port of Sisal. Five vessels were at anchor, an extraordinary circumstance for Sisal, and fortunate for us, because otherwise, as our captain had never been there before, though carefully looking for it, we might not have been able to find it. Our anchorage ground was on the open coast, two or three miles from land, at which distance it was necessary to keep, lest we should be driven ashore in case of a norther. Captain Scholefield, in fact, before he had discharged his cargo, was obliged to slip his cables and put to sea, and did not get back to his anchorage ground in nine days.

It was only four o'clock in the afternoon, but, by the regulations of the port, no passenger could land until the vessel had been visited by the health and custom-house officers. We looked out till dark, and long after the moon rose, but no notice whatever was taken of us, and, with no very amiable feelings toward the lazy officials, we turned in again on board.

In the morning, when we went on deck, we saw anchored under our stern the brig Lucinda, in which we had thought of taking passage; she had sailed from New-York four days after we did, and arrived during the night.

Very soon we saw coming off toward us the separate canoes of the health and custom-house officers. We were boarded by a very little man with a very big mustache, who was seasick before he mounted the deck, and in a few minutes betook himself to a berth. The preliminaries, however, were soon settled, and we went ashore. All disposition we might have had to complain the night before ceased on landing. Our former visit was not forgotten. The account of it had been translated and published, and, as soon as the object of our return was known, every facility was given us, and all our trunks, boxes, and multifarious luggage were passed without examination by the custom-house officers.

The little town of Sisal had not increased either in houses or inhabitants, and did not present any additional inducements to remain in it. The same afternoon we sent off our luggage in a carreta for Merida, and the next morning started in calezas ourselves.

From the suburbs of the town the plain was inundated, and for more than a mile our horses were above their knees in water. When we passed before, this ground was dry, parched, and cracking open. It was now the last of the rainy season, and the great body of water, without any stream by which to pass off, was drying up under a scorching sun, to leave the earth infected with malaria.

We had arrived in the fulness of tropical vegetation; the stunted trees along the road were in their deepest green, and Dr. Cabot opened to us a new source of interest and beauty. In order to begin business at once, he rode in the first caleza alone, and before he had gone far, we saw the barrel of his gun protrude on one side, and a bird fall. He had seen at Sisal, egretes, pelicans, and ducks which were rare in collections at home, and an oscillated wild turkey, which alone he thought worth the voyage to that place; and now, our attention being particularly directed to the subject, in some places the shrubs and bushes seemed brilliant with the plumage and vocal with the notes of birds. On the road he saw four different species which are entirely unknown in the United States, and six others which are found only in Louisiana and Florida, of most of which he procured specimens.

We stopped at Huncuma during the heat of the day; at dark reached Merida, and once more rode up to the house of Dona Micaela. Coming directly from home, we were not so much excited as when we reached it after a toilsome and comfortless journey in Central America; but even now it would ill become me to depreciate it, for the donna had read the account of my former visit to Merida, and she said, with an emphasis that covered all the rest, that the dates of arrival and departure as therein mentioned corresponded exactly with the entries in her book.

We had arrived at Merida at an opportune moment. As on the occasion of our first visit, it was again a season of fiesta. The fete of San Cristoval, an observance of nine days, was then drawing to its close, and that evening a grand _function_ was to be performed in the church dedicated to that saint. We had no time to lose, and, after a hasty supper, under the guidance of an Indian lad belonging to the house, we set out for the church. Very soon we were in the main street leading to it, along which, as it seemed, the whole population of Merida was moving to the fete. In every house a lantern hung from the balconied windows, or a long candle stood under a glass shade, to light them on their way. At the head of the street was a large plaza, on one side of which stood the church, with its great front brilliantly illuminated, and on the platform and steps, and all the open square before it, was a great moving mass of men, women, and children, mostly Indians, dressed in white.