Travels in Arabia; comprehending an account of those territories in Hedjaz which the Mohammedans regard as sacred — Inside the Classic

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Burckhardt, John Lewis, 1784-1817 Project Gutenberg 2005
Arabian Peninsula -- Description and travel Readers of public-domain and historical texts
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Edition facts

Words: 184,783
Reading time: 804 min
Text sections: 14
Burckhardt's firsthand account of the Hedjaz, based on his 1814–1815 journey disguised as a Muslim, details the climate, diseases, and social customs of Mecca and Jidda with clinical precision, drawing on local histories and his own observations.
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Editorial Edition Score 4.8/5

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Edition quality

John Lewis Burckhardt’s account of the Hedjaz is distinguished by its author’s unusual access: he resided in Mecca during the pilgrimage season, having successfully assumed a Muslim identity. The editor’s preface notes that Burckhardt transmitted “the most accurate and complete account of the Hedjaz … which has ever been received in Europe.” The text that follows is not a romantic travelogue but a methodical record of climate, disease, and daily life, grounded in both personal observation and citations of Arabic chroniclers such as Asamy and Fasy.

Climate and Its Bodily Effects

Burckhardt devotes sustained attention to the physical environment, describing how the coastal dampness of Jidda soaks through clothing even on clear September days. He notes that the north-east wind, prevalent in summer, makes stone pavements appear “covered with moisture.” This humidity is not merely atmospheric but pathological: he links it to the prevalence of dysentery, intermittent fevers, and chronic leg sores. The smallest scratch, he warns, can become an open wound in such conditions. His account is precise enough to record that fifty persons died in a single day during a putrid fever outbreak, and that the plague, long believed to be divinely withheld from the holy province, struck in 1815, killing perhaps one-sixth of the population of Mecca and Jidda.

Local Medical Practices and Beliefs

Burckhardt reports that Bedouins of the Beni Sad tribe, living about thirty miles south of Taif, possess a hereditary secret for extracting bladder stones, using a common razor and achieving general success. He also notes that ophthalmia is rare in the Hedjaz, while elephantiasis and Guinea worm are not uncommon. The water of Mecca is blamed for stone in the bladder and other ailments. These observations are interwoven with references to earlier epidemics recorded by local historians, such as the pestilence of A.H. 671 that killed fifty persons daily. Burckhardt does not merely catalogue diseases; he connects them to the environment, diet, and social habits, offering a holistic picture of health in the region.

The Editor’s Role and the Text’s Provenance

The preface explains that Burckhardt’s manuscript journal was partly corrected by Colonel Leake, the editor of his earlier works, though Leake did not see this volume through the press. The actual editor states that Leake’s plan was “almost invariably adopted,” particularly in expressing the author’s sentiments with “scrupulous fidelity.” This editorial framework reminds readers that the text is a posthumous publication, shaped by scholarly mediation. The volume was intended as the third of four, with a fourth to contain remarks on the Bedouins and the Wahabys. Understanding this context helps readers appreciate the work as part of a larger project of systematic geographical and ethnographic documentation.

Readers should approach this work as a primary source shaped by the constraints of its author’s disguise and the editorial decisions of its publishers. Burckhardt’s observations are most valuable when read alongside his earlier travels in Nubia and Syria, which share a similar empirical method. The text rewards attention to its footnotes and citations of Arabic sources, which ground his claims in local knowledge rather than European preconceptions.

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