Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) — Edition Insights

Departure for Timbúktu. — The Hilly North-Western Provinces of Bórnu 1

My Situation at the Death of Mr. Overweg. — Pecuniary Circumstances. — Inroad of the Tawárek. — Take Leave of the Sheikh. — Projects. — My Servants. — The two freed Africans. — The Méjebri. — Encampment in Kalíluwá. — Great Cold. — Súwa Búwa. — District of Koyám. — The old Inhabitant of Birni. — Fertile Districts. — The farming Village. — The Drain of the Komádugu. — Fractions of Tribes. — Character of the Komádugu. — Fúlbe Cattle-Breeders. — Site of Ghasréggomo. — The Ruins. — The Komádugu at Zéngiri. — Considerable Current. — Province of Manga. — Manga Warriors. — Manga Females. — Borzári. — The Bedde and their Komádugu. — Meeting with Mohammed ben Áhmed. — Daring Theft. — Wall of Gesma. — Immense Anthills. — Donárí. — Reach again Zurríkulo.

The Mountainous Territory of Múniyó and its Governor 42

Busy Scene at Ngárruwa. — Well of Berbéruwá. — Notice of Auyók. — Chelúgiwá. — Natron Lake of Búne. — New and Old Búne. — Conflagration. — Peculiar Character of Múniyó. — Palmgrove of Túnguré. — View of Gúre. — Estate of Múniyóma. — Audience with Múniyóma. — His Character. — Slave Hunting. — Site of Gúre. — Peculiar Site of Wúshek. — Sacred Site of Gábatá. — District of Keléno. — The Natron Lake or Ábye. — Lakes of Badamúni. — Plan of the Oasis of Badamúni. — Varied Vegetation. — Fresh Lake and Natron Lake. — Survey of the Lake. — Governor of Badamúni. — Mírriya, a favoured Locality. — Character of Zinder. — Ground Plan of Zinder. — Importance of the Town. — Pecuniary Supplies.

Departure from Zinder. — The Border Region between the Bórnu and the Fulfúlde Empires. — Second Stay in Kátsena 84

Line of Route. — Highway Robbers less to be feared than rapacious Governors. — An old Acquaintance. — Unusual Mode of drawing Water. — Conspicuous Valley, with dense Grove of Dúmpalms. — Gazáwa again. — The Ex-governor and rebel Chief Sadíku. — Night’s March. — Arrival before Kátsena. — Interview with the Governor. — The Ghaladíma of Sókoto. — New Stores laid in in Kátsena. — Approach of the rainy Season. — The Fáki ʿAbd e’ Rahmán. — His Arguments in favour of Polygamy. — Unforeseen Difficulty. — Conduct of the Governor of Kátsena.

Journey from Kátsena to Sókoto 105

Setting out from Kátsena. — The Dorówa Tree. — Tobacco and Yams. — Great Detour — on account of hostile Army. — Kúlkadá. Kúrayé. — Expeditionary Corps. — Kúrrefi and its Fortifications. — An agreeable Incident. — Unsafe District. — Town of Zékka. — Desertion of Servant. — Dangerous Night’s March. — Búnka. — Zyrmi. — State of Zánfara. — Trade with Dodówa Cakes. — Dúchi. — Market of Badaráwa. — The Zanfaráwa and Goberáwa. — Tribute of Kátsena. — First Rúdu. — Sansanne ʿAísa. — Night’s March through the Wilderness of Gúndumi. — Arrival in Gáwasú. — First Meeting with ʿAlíyu. — Kind Reception. — Presents, how received. — Letter of Franchise. — Arrival at Wurno.

Residence in Wurno 143

Superior Position of the Fúlbe. — Their Origin and Intermixture with other Tribes. — Different Nationalities absorbed by them. — Their Divisions. — Progress of the Tribe from the West. — Fúlbe in Sixteenth Century. — Rise of Sheikh ʿOthmán the Reformer. — Sultan Bello. — Present State of the Empire. — My Quarters in Wurno. — General Character of Wurno. — Particular Description. — Ground Plan of Wurno. — Unsafe State of the Province. — Dread of the Góberáwa. — Gloomy Prospects for my Journey. — Occupation. — Aspect of the Country. — Captain Clapperton’s Route. — Fine Valley of Bamúrna. — Excursion to Sókoto. — Appearance of the Town. — The Syllebáwa and their Chief Hámedu. — Clapperton’s Death. — The Valley of Sókoto. — Ground Plan of Sókoto. — Return of the Sultan. — Musical Presents. — My Friend ʿAbd el Káder of Ágades. — Literary works of ʿAbd Alláhi and Bello. — Death of the Ruler of Másina.

State of Insecurity along the most frequented Highroad. — Gando 189

Departure from Wurno. — Leave Sókoto. — Heavy rain. — Fields of Yams. — Bodínga. — Dendi. — Shagáli. — Señína. — Character of Gando; Ground Plan. — The Sultan Khalílu. — Difficult Transactions. — Áhmed Bábá’s History of Songhay. — Climate of Gando. — Extent of Empire.

The Province of Kebbi and its River. — The Valley of Fógha. — Reach the Niger 204

Leave Gando. — Extensive Rice-Grounds. — Kámbasa. — Swampy Valley with Rice-Grounds. — Gaúmaché. — Unsafe State of the Country. — Gúlumbé, rich Vegetation. — Solitary Pilgrim. — Kardi. — Hausáwa. — Bírni-n-Kebbi. — Situation at the Brink of the wide swampy Valley. — ʿOthmán Záki. — Kóla, and its Governor. — Júggurú. — Zogírma and its Governor. — Dangerous Road. — New Companions. — Tilli. — A Day in the Wilderness. — Site of Bírni-n-Débe. — Dallul Máuri. — Shallow Vales. — The Valley of Fógha. — The Salt of Fógha. — Character of Fógha People. — Importance of Fógha in Ethnological Respect. — Plenty of Kóla Nuts, but no Corn. — Unexpected Generosity. — Dense Forest. — A Solitary Limtúni. — Bóso. — Garbo. — Lanadéji. — Peculiar Cornstacks. — Songhay Farming Hamlets. — Avoid Támkala. — Short Marches. — Tóndifú. — Reach the Niger. — Aspect of the River. — Large Canoes. — Town and Market of Say. — State of Market. — Traffic. — Governor of Say. — No Songhay Interpreter.

The hilly Country of Gurma 250

Leave Say. — Low Situation. — Sandwind and heavy Thunderstorm. — Town of Champagóre. — Architecture. — Mohammed Galaijo. — His Residence. — His former State. — His new Settlement. — His Court. — The Gurma and the Songhay. — Songhay Towns. — Torrent Górebi. — Champaláwel, and its Governor. — Gúro Caravan. — Smelting Furnaces. — Bangapelle. — Elephant Traces. — Bosebángo. — River Sírba. — Frail Raft. — Smoking Disposition. — Mode of carrying Water. — Country beyond the River. — Bundóre. — Denga. — Fine Timber for Boat building. — Sebba, Capital of Yágha. — Description of Huts. — Reception by Governor. — Provisions. — Holiday. — The Kádhi.

Province of Libtáko. — South-eastern Limit of the Range of the Commerce of Timbúktu 281

Plenty of Water-Courses. — Character of Country. — Namantúgu. — The Arab from the West. — Wandering Fúlbe. — Tumpénga, and Reformatory Struggle. — Unhospitable Reception. — Dóre, capital of Libtáko. — Importance of Market of Dóre. — Difficulty of supplying my Wants. — Mósi traders. — Drought. — Anarchy. — Various Names of Dóre. — Interesting Relations of Water Communication. — Political Situation. — Delay. — News from Timbúktu. — Unlucky Fate of a Letter.

Unsettled Provinces obstructed by Nature, and infested by Man. — Áribínda. — Hómbori 298

Uncertain Distance from Timbúktu. — Departure from Dóre. — The Ponds or “Wéndu.” — Providentially detained in Wúlu. — Numerous Sheets of Water. — Difficult Watercourse. — Serious Encounter. — Crossing a Swamp. — Áribínda. — Fíliyo, a Songhay Village. — Independent Character of Inhabitants. — Tinge. — Ground Plan of Dwelling. — Character of Inhabitants. — Habits of Industry. — Heavy Rains. — Caillié’s Kissour. — Fúlbe Cattle Breeders. — Hómbori. — The Black Worm. — Kúbo. — District Tondi. — Craftiness of El Waláti. — March of Red Worms. — Isolated Mounts. — Native Dwellings. — Dúna. — Governor of Dalla. — Mundóro. — Curious Thatchwork. — Hómbori Range. — Variety of Huts of Ísayé. — Approach Hómbori Mountains. — Castellated Mounts. — Bóne.

Imóshagh or Tawárek Encampments South of the Niger. — Lakes and Backwaters of the Great River 338

Visit Encampment. — Tawárek Tents and Comforts. — A Cascade. — Apparel. — Conduct of El Waláti. — District of Imeggélelé. — Native Horse Dealers. — Bélé, Chief of the Haw-n-Ádak. — Tawárek Women and Boys. — Presents. — Camels knocked up. — District of Mínta. — Bámbara or Hudári. — Its Importance. — Personal Relations. — The Méhedí expected. — The Chief Somki.

The Network of Creeks, Backwaters, and Lakes belonging to the Niger. — Sarayámo. — Navigation to Kábara 361

Creek of Bámbara. — Character of Bámbara. — Great Heat. — Indiscreet Inquiries. — Lake Nyéngay. — Character of Country. — Somki’s Camp. — Mohammed Bonyámi. — Town of Sarayámo. — Various Performances. — Embark on the Creek. — Character of Creek. — Good Fish. — Very winding Course. — Wide open Branch. — Animated Scenery. — Town of Banáy. — Island of Kóra. — Sanyáre. — Enter the principal Branch of Niger. — Majestic Scenery.

Arrival at Kábara. — Entrance into Timbúktu 391

Tásakal. — Koróme. — Large Number of Boats. — Branch of Koróme. — Arrival at Kábara. — Description of Kábara. — The Inspector of the Harbour. — Unwelcome Visitors. — Interview with Sídi Álawáte. — Approach to Timbúktu. — Momentous Meeting. — Entrance into Timbúktu.

General Observations on the History of Songhay and Timbúktu 406

Áhmed Bábá, the Historian. — His Authority. — Origin of Timbúktu. — Form of Name. — Sonni ʿAlí. — Háj Mohammed Áskíá. — Condition of Songhay Empire. — List of Provinces. — Power of the Governors. — Despotic Rule. — Heir Apparent. — Political Condition of Songhay. — Intercourse with Egypt. — Commerce. — Army. — The Rumá. — Political Situation of Timbúktu. — Latest Events.

First Month of Residence in Timbúktu 437

Awkward Position. — Presents to Sídi Álawáte. — View of the Town. — Caillié’s Sketch. — Purchase of Calico. — The Name for Cotton mentioned by El Bekrí. — First Trial. — Firmer Position. — Different Meaning of Words in different States of Society. — Letter to El Bakáy. — My own Quarters. — False Prospects of Home Journey. — First Interview with the Sheikh. — Major Laing. — Presents. — Illness. — Orders from Hamda-Alláhi. — Intrigues successfully overcome. — Night’s Watch.

First Residence in the Desert. — Political Combinations. — Great Mosque. — Ground Plan of the Town 463

Leave the Town. — The Camp. — Political Schemes. — Attempt at Proselytism. — Return to Town. — Movements of the Fúlbe. — Annoying Circumstances. — Excursion to Kábara. — Note on the Royal Residence in Hamda-Alláhi. — A few Palm-trees. — The Great Mosque. — Ground Plan of the Town. — Circumference. — Wall. — The Different Quarters of the Town. — Inhabitants. — Another Stay in the Camp. — Sand-eating. — Private Life in Camp. — Tediousness of Position.

Political State of the Country. — Dangerous Crisis 489

Interruption of Caravan Trade. — The Tájakánt. — Position of the Fúlbe in Relation to the Berber Tribes. — Dangerous Situation. — Officer sent from Hamda-Alláhi to catch me. — Host repulsed. — Letter from Hamda-Alláhi. — Interview with the Chief of the Tademékket. — Knowledge is Power. — Presents. — Large Troop of Bérabísh Horsemen. — Letter and News from Europe. — Hostile Gathering. — Leave Town again. — An Embassy. — Return to Town. — Áwáb’s Account of Mungo Park. — Letter of Franchise. — Momentous Death of the Chief of the Bérabísh ʿAlí Weled ʿAbéda. — Out to the Camp. Chanting in the Desert. — Christian and Mohammedan Principles. — The Inundation. — Stream of running Water in the Desert. — State of Trade. — Small Tájakánt Caravan. — Close of the Year.

Present Condition of the Province of Zánfara 521

A few historical Facts relating to Góber and Zánfara. — Fúlbe Tribes 526

Song of Sheikh ʿOthmán 531

Partition of Kebbi. Kebbi according to its Partition between the Empire of Sókoto and that of Gando 533

Towns and Villages of Déndina 538

A few Remarks on the Province of Yáuri and on those of Máuri and Zabérma 545

Information with regard to the Provinces of Gurma, Mósi, and Tombo 550

Pedigree of the Sheikh Sídi Áhmed el Bakáy 566

Two Poems of the Sheikh El Bakáy, wherein he satirizes the Fúlbe of Másina 568

Translation of the two Poems of Áhmed el Bakáy 574

Chronological Table of the History of Songhay and the neighbouring Kingdoms 579

Fragments of a Meteorological Register 631

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE FOURTH VOLUME.

XII. Map of my Routes between Kátsena and Say 104

XIII. Map of my Routes between Say and Timbúktu, including the Survey of the Niger 250

1. View of Timbúktu from the Terrace of the Traveller’s House _To face Frontispiece._

2. The Komádugu at Zéngiri _to face_ 27

3. Salt-Lake near Búne „ 47

7. Market of Sókoto „ 179

8. Valley of Fógha „ 226

9. The Ísa (Niger) at Say „ 241

10. Songhay Village „ 332

11. Mountains of Hómbori „ 336

12. Niger at Koróme „ 392

13. Arrival at Kábara „ 394

14. Entrance into Timbúktu „ 404

Ábbega and Dýrregu 10

Bird’s-eye View of Site of Birni 24

Repairing the Wall of Gesma 38

Ground-plan of Wúshek 60

Ground-plan of Oasis of Badamúni 70

Ground-plan of Zínder 80

Remarkable Fortifications of Kúrrefí 112

Ground-plan of Dúchi 123

Rúdu, or elevated Sleeping Hut 128

My Quarters in Wurno 157

Ground-plan of Wurno 162

Architecture of Champagóre 253

Front of Residence of Galaijo 254

Smelting Furnaces 265

Ground-plan of Hut at Namantúgu 276

View of the Interior of same Hut 277

The Lamórde of Áribínda 306

Ground-plan of House in Tínge 311

Isolated Cones of Hómbori Range 324

Native Huts and Corn-stacks 325

Peculiar Thatchwork 329

Variety of Huts at Ísayé 331

Cliffs resembling artificial Fortification 334

Castellated Mounts 335

Interior of Imóshagh Tent 340

Mounts of Núggera 342

Flat-topped Cones 346

Ground-plan of my Quarters in Timbuktu 449

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES IN AFRICA.

DEPARTURE FOR TIMBÚKTU. — THE HILLY NORTH-WESTERN PROVINCES OF BÓRNU.

The death of Mr. Overweg, happening at a period when the prospects of the mission just began to brighten, induced me to relinquish my original plan of once more trying my fortune in Kánem and on the N.E. shores of the Tsád, as an undertaking too dangerous for me in my isolated position, and the results of which could not reasonably be expected to be great, even with the protection of a small force, in a disturbed country, in comparison with the dangers that accompanied it. Besides, such was the character of the horde of the Welád Slimán and their mode of warfare, that after having received the sanction of the British Government for my proceedings, and being authorised by them to carry out the objects of the mission as at first projected, I could scarcely venture to associate myself again with such a lawless set of people. I therefore determined to direct my whole attention towards the west, in order to explore the countries situated on the middle course of the great western river the Ísa, or the so-called Niger, and at the same time to establish friendly relations with the powerful ruler of the empire of Sókotó, and to obtain full permission for myself or other Europeans to visit the south-eastern provinces of his empire, especially Ádamáwa, which I had been prevented from fully exploring by the real or pretended fear of the governor of that province, to grant such a permission without the sanction of his liege lord.

The treaty which I had at length succeeded in getting signed by the sheikh of Bórnu and his vizier on the last of August, together with a map of all the parts of Central Africa which I had as yet visited, and containing at the same time all the information which I had been able to collect concerning the neighbouring provinces[1], I had forwarded home in the middle of October, addressing at the same time the request to H.M.’s consul at Tripoli, to send me, by a special courier to Zínder, a certain sum of money. The road which I had before me was long, leading through the territories of a great many different chiefs, and partly even of powerful princes; and as soon as I should have left Zínder behind me, I could not expect to find fresh supplies, the sum of money which I had received on my return from Bagírmi being almost all spent in paying the debts which we had incurred when left without means. A sum of 400 dollars, besides a box containing choice English ironware, had been some time before consigned to a Tebú of the name of Áhmed Háj ʿAlí Bíllama: but instead of proceeding at once with the caravan with which he had left Fezzán, as he ought to have done, he staid behind in his native town Bilma to celebrate a marriage. The caravan, with about twenty horses and a hundred camels, arrived, on the 10th of November, without bringing me anything, except the proof of such reckless conduct; and as I could not afford to lose any more time in waiting for this parcel, I left orders that it should be forwarded to Zínder as soon as it should arrive. But never received it.

Nearly three fourths of the money in cash which we had received being required to pay off our debts, we had been obliged to give away a great portion even of the articles of merchandise, or presents, in order to reward friends who for so long a period had displayed their hospitality towards us, and rendered us services almost without the slightest recompense; so that, on the whole, it was only under the most pressing circumstances I could think of undertaking a journey to the west with the means then at my disposal. But, very luckily, a handsome sum of money was on the road to Zínder; I also expected to receive at that place a few new instruments, as the greater part of my thermometers were broken, and I had no instrument left for making hypsometrical observations.

An inroad on a large scale, of a tribe of the Tawárek, or Kindín, as they are called in Bórnu, under their chief, Músa, into the province of Múniyó, through which lay my road to Zínder, delayed my departure for a considerable time. This inroad of the hordes of the desert claimed a greater interest than usual, especially when considered in connection with the facts which I have set forth on a former occasion[2], the Tawárek or Berbers having originally formed an integral part of the settled population of Bórnu. These Díggera of Músa, who appear to have occupied these tracts at a former period, had evidently formed the firm intention of settling again in the fine valleys of the province of Múniyó, which are so favourable to the breeding of camels, that even when the country was in the hands of the Bórnu people they used to send their herds there.

At length, after a long series of delays, the road to the west became open, and I took leave of the sheikh on the 19th of November, in a private audience, none but the vizier being present. I then found reason to flatter myself that, from the manner in which I had explained to them the motives which had induced me to undertake a journey to the chiefs of the Fúlbe or Felláta, there were no grounds of suspicion remaining between us, although they made it a point that I should avoid going by Kanó; and even when I rejected their entreaty to remain with them after my successful return from Timbúktu, they found nothing to object, as I assured them that I might be more useful to them as a faithful friend in my own country, than by remaining with them in Bórnu. At that time I thought that Her Majesty’s Government would be induced to send a consul to Bórnu, and, in consequence, I raised their expectations on that point. But matters in Bórnu greatly changed during my absence in the west, and, in consequence of the temporary interregnum of the usurper ʿAbd e’ Rahmán and the overthrow and murder of the vizier, the state of affairs there assumed a less settled aspect. I concluded my leave-taking by requesting my kind hosts, once more, to send a copy of the history of Edrís Alawóma, the most celebrated Bórnu king, to the British Government, as I was sure that, in their desire to elucidate the history and geography of these regions, this would be an acceptable present.