Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 2 (of 5) — Themes and Context

Separation of the Travellers. — The Border Districts of the Independent Pagan Confederation. — Tasáwa 1

Dissembling of the Chief. — His steadfast Character. — Mr. Richardson’s Health. — Separation. — Different Roads to Kanó. — Animated Intercourse. — Native Warfare. — The First Large Tamarind-tree. — Villages and Wells. — Separation from Mr. Overweg. — Improved Scenery. — Encampment at Gozenákko. — Lively Camp-scene. — Native Delicacies. — Revenues of Tasáwa. — Astounding Message. — Visit to Tasáwa. — The Market in Tasáwa. — Náchirá, Ánnur’s Estate. — Character of the People and their Dwellings. — Intrigue defeated. — Counting Shells. — A Petty Sultan. — Dyeing-Pits.

Gazáwa. — Residence in Kátsena 32

An African Dandy. — My Protector Elaiji. — Camp-life. — Fortifications and Market of Gazáwa. — March resumed. — Desolate Wilderness. — Site of Dánkama. — Struggle between Islámism and Paganism. — Encampment near Kátsena. — Estimate of Salt-caravan. — Negro Horsemen. — Equestrian Musicians. — The Governor of Kátsena. — Detained by him. — The Governor’s Wiles. — Disputes. — Who is the “Káfer?” — Clapperton’s Companion. — The Tawáti Bel-Ghét conciliated. — Extortionate Demands. — Subject about the Káfer resumed. — The Presents. — Promenade through the Town. — The Governor’s Wishes. — Taking Leave of him.

Háusa. — History and Description of Kátsena. — Entry into Kanó 69

The Name Háusa. — Origin of the Háusa Nation. — The seven States. — Origin of the Town of Kátsena. — The Mohammedan Missionary Ben Maghíli. — Kings of Kátsena. — The First Moslim. — The Oldest Quarter. — Magnitude of the Town. — Its Decline. — Salubrious Site and Favourable Situation of Kátsena. — Departure from Kátsena. — Wild State of the Country. — Shibdáwa. — Rich Scenery. — Kusáda. — The Bentang Tree. — Women with Heavy Loads. — Beehives. — Gúrzo. — Approach to Kanó. — Straggling Villages. — Composition of our Troop. — First View of Dalá. — Entering Kanó.

Residence in Kanó. — View of its Interior. — Its History and Present State. — Commerce 97

My Situation in Kanó. — Debts. — Projects. — The Commissioner. — Difficulties. — Sickness. — Interior of Kanó; Animated Picture. — The Quarters of the Conquered and the Ruling Race. — The “Serkí” and the Gháladíma. — The Audience. — Presents. — Plan of Kanó. — Street-groups. — Industry. — View from Mount Dalá. — Acquaintances in Kanó. — Meditated Departure. — Historical Sketch of Kanó. — Growth of the Town. — The Quarters of the Town. — Ground-plan of my House. — Population. — Commerce. — Various Kinds of Zénne. — Export of Cloth. — Grand Character of Trade. — Produce. — The Guinea-fowl Shirt. — Leather-work. — Kola-nut. — Slaves. — Natron, Salt, Ivory-trade. — European Goods in Kanó. — The South American Slave-traders. — Small Quantity of Calico. — Silk. — Woollen Cloth. — Beads. — Sugar. — Fire-arms. — Razors. — Arab Dresses. — Copper. — The Shells and the Dollar. — Markets of Kanó. — Revenues. — Administration. — The Conquering Tribe.

Starting for Kúkawa. — The Frontier-district 148

Leaving Kanó quite by myself. — My Trooper. — Get off later. — Domestic Slavery. — Gezáwa. — My Runaway Servant ʿAbd Allah. — The Sheríf and his Attendants. — Mules in Negroland. — Kúka Mairuwá. — Insecurity. — Scarcity of Water. — Natron-trade. — Endurance and Privations of the Traveller. — Arrival at Gerki. — Take Leave of Háusa. — Gúmmel. — Housebuilding. — Antidote. — Market at Gúmmel. — Magnitude of Ilóri. — Two Spanish Dollars. — Depart from Gúmmel. — Benzári. — The Rebel Chief Bokhári. — His Exploits. — The Governor of Máshena. — Letter-carrier’s Mistake. — Curious Talisman. — Manga Warriors. — Wuëlleri. — Scarcity of Water again. — Town of Máshena. — State of the Country. — Cheerful, Out-of-the-way Place. — Álamáy. — Búndi and the Gháladíma. — The Kárda. — Route from Kanó to Álamáy by way of Khadéja.

Intercourse. — Change of Life in Negroland. — Region of the Dúm-palm. — The Kúri Ox. — The River Wáni. — Enter Bórnu Proper. — Zurríkuló. — News of the Death of Mr. Richardson. — Sandy Downs. — Déffowa. — Industry. — The Stray Camel. — Town of Wádi. — Good Market and no Provisions. — Hospitable Treatment. — The Banks of the Wáni. — Locusts and Hawks. — Ngurútuwa; Grave of Mr. Richardson. — The Tawárek again. — Aláune. — The Jungles of the Komádugu. — Ruins of Ghámbarú. — A Forest Encampment. — Nomadic Herdsmen. — Abundance of Milk. — Ford of the Komádugu. — Native Ferry-boats. — Khér-Álla, the Border-warfarer. — Changing Guides. — The Runaway Horse. — A Domestic Quarrel.

Arrival in Kúkawa 240

Peculiar Character of the Alluvial Plains of Bórnu. — The Attentive Woman. — Entrance into Kúkawa. — Servants of the Mission. — Debts of the Mission. — Interview with the Vizier. — Sheikh ʿOmár. — Mr. Richardson’s Property. — Amicable Arrangements.

Authenticity and general Character of the History of Bórnu 253

Documents. — Beginning of written History. — Pedigree of the Bórnu Kings. — Chronology. — Harmony of Facts. — The Séfuwa Dynasty. — Ébn Khaldún. — Makrízí and Ébn Batúta. — Surprising Accuracy of the Chronicle of Bórnu. — Statement of Leo Africanus. — Berber Origin of the Séfuwa. — Form of Government. — The Berber Race. — The Queen Mother. — Indigenous Tribes. — The Tedá or Tebu. — The Soy. — Epochs of Bórnu History. — Greatest Power. — Decline of the Bórnu Empire. — The Kánemíyín.

The Capital of Bornu 283

My Friends. — The Arab Áhmed bel Mejúb. — The Púllo Íbrahím from the Senegal. — Dangerous Medical Practice. — Áhmed the Traveller. — My Bórnu Friends. — The Vizier el Háj Beshír; his Career; his Domestic Establishment; his Leniency. — Debts of the Mission paid. — The English House. — Plague of Insects. — Preparations for a Journey. — Character of Kúkawa. — The Two Towns. — The Great Market. — Business and Concourse. — Defective Currency. — Prices of Provisions. — Fruits. — Camels. — Horses. — Want of Native Industry. — Bórnu Women. — Promenade.

Character of the Road to Ngórnu. — Ngórnu. — Searching the Tsád. — Longer Excursion. — Character of the Shores of the Tsád. — The Búdduma and their Boats. — Fresh Water. — Swampy Plains. — Boats of the Búdduma again. — Maduwári. — Dress of the Sugúrti. — Account of the Lake. — Shores of the Creek. — Sóyorum. — Káwa. — Return to Kúkawa. — Servants dismissed. — Mohammed Titíwi the Auspicious Messenger. — Slave-caravan. — Announcement of Rainy Season. — Ride to Gawánge. — Mr. Overweg’s Arrival. — Meeting. — Property restored. — Mercantile Intrigues. — The Sheikh’s Relatives. — Messengers from Ádamáwa. — Anticipated Importance of the Eastern Branch of the Niger — Proposed Journey to Ádamáwa.

Setting out on my Journey to Ádamáwa. — The Flat, Swampy Grounds of Bórnu 351

Leaving Kúkawa. — The Road Southwards. — Inhospitality near the Capital. — Buying with a Shirt. — The Winter Corn. — The Shúwa Arabs. — Múngholo Gezáwa. — Fair Arabs. — Magá District. — The Gámerghú District. — District of Ujé. — Fine Country. — Mábaní. — Pilgrim Traders, Banks of the Yáloë. — First View of the Mountains. — Fúgo Mozári. — Market of Ujé. — Aláwo. — Approach to Mándará.

The Border-country of the Marghí 374

Question about Snowy Mountains. — The Blacksmith. — Shámo District. — A Storm. — Molghoy. — The Southern Molghoy. — Large Kúrna-trees. — Structure of the Huts. — Deviations from Negro Type. — The Marghí, their Attire and Language. — Edible Wild Fruits. — The Baobab. — Beautiful Scenery. — Íssege. — Spirit of the Natives. — Degenerate Fúlbe. — The Lake. — View of Mount Míndif. — Wándalá Mountains. — Route to Sugúr. — The Marghí Tribe. — Scientific Dispute. — Unsafe Wilderness. — Unwholesome Water. — The Return of the Slave Girl. — The Bábir Tribe. — Laháula. — The Idol. — Alarm. — Abundance of Vegetable Butter. — Serious March. — The Báza Tribe. — The Dividing Range. — Úba. — The New Colony.

Ádamáwa. Mohammedan Settlements in the Heart of Central Africa 414

The Conquering Tribe. — The Granite Hills. — Valley and Mountain-chain. — Isolated Mountain-groups. — Múbi. — The Surrounding Country. — Origin of the Fúlbe. — Bágma and Peculiar Structures. — Camels a Novelty. — Compliment paid to the Christian. — Mbutúdi. — Fúlbe Way of Saluting. — The Déléb-palm (_Borassus flabelliformis?_) and its Fruit. — The Granite Mount. — Simplicity of Manners. — Mount Hólma. — Legéro. — Edible Productions. — Ground-nut Diet. — Badaníjo. — Fertile Vale. — Temporary Scarcity. — Kurúlu. — Red and white Sorghum. — Saráwu Beréberé. — Comfortable Quarters. — Accurate Description. — Important Situation of Saráwu. — Tebu Traders. — Fair Negroes. — Market of Saráwu. — Saráwu Fulfúlde. — The Mansion. — The Blind Governor. — Principal Men in Yóla. — Mount Konkel. — Bélem. — An Arab Adventurer. — Rich Vegetation. — The young Púllo. — Old Mʿallem Dalíli. — Arab Colony. — A Country for Colonies. — Ruined Village (Melágo). — Gastronomic Discussion. — Máyo Tíyel. — The Bátta Tribe. — Sulléri. — Inhospitable Reception.

The Meeting of the Waters. — The Bénuwé and Fáro 463

Approach to the River. — Mount Alantíka and the Bénuwé. — The Tépe or “Junction.” — The great Arm of the Kwára. — The Traveller’s Pursuits. — Highroad of Commerce. — The Frail Canoes. — Bathing in the Bénuwé. — The Passage. — The River Fáro; its Current. — Floods and Fall of the River. — Chabajáure. — Densely inhabited District. — Mount Bágelé. — The Backwater. — Ribágo. — Cultivation of Rice. — The Bátta Language. — Inundation. — Yebbórewó. — Mount Bágelé and Island. — Reach Yóla.

My Reception in Yóla. — Short Stay. — Dismissal 485

Inauspicious Entrance. — Curiosity of Natives. — Quarters. — An Arab Traveller to Lake Nyassa. — The Governor Mohammed Lowel. — The Audience. — The Mission repulsed. — The Governor’s Brother Mansúr. — Ordered to withdraw. — Begin my Return-Journey. — Character of Yóla. — Slavery. — Extent of Fúmbiná. — Elevation and Climate. — Vegetable and Animal Kingdom. — Principal Chiefs of the Country. — Tribes; the Bátta, the Chámba, and other Tribes.

My Journey Home from Ádamáwa 515

Start from Ribágo. — Hospitable Treatment in Sulléri. — Demsa-Póha. — The Memorable Campaign Southward. — View of a Native Settlement. — Beautiful Country. — Bélem again. — Mʿallem Dalíli and his Family. — Múglebú. — Múbi. — My Quarters. — Household Furniture. — Úba. — Unsafe Boundary-district. — Laháula. — Íssege. — Iron Ornaments of the Marghí. — Funeral Dance. — Ordeal. — Feeling of Love. — A Party going to Sacrifice. — Arrival at Yerímarí. — Villages of the Gámerghú. — Ujé Kásukulá. — Difference of Climate. — Plants. — Huts. — Plains of Bórnu Proper. — Seizing a Hut. — African Schoolboys. — A wandering Tribe. — Town and Country. — Guineaworm. — Thunder-storm. — People returning from Market. — Múnghono. — Return to Kúkawa.

Quarters of the Town of Kátsena 555

Chief Places in the Province of Kátsena 557

Chief Places in the Province of Kanó, and Routes diverging from Kanó in various Directions, principally towards the South 558

Collection of Itineraries passing through the various Districts of Ádamáwa 587

Containing a List of the Séfuwa, or Kings of Bórnu descended from Séf, with the few historical facts and events under their respective reigns, that have come to our knowledge 633

Fragments of a Meteorological Register 673

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE SECOND VOLUME.

VII. Routes between Kátsena and Kúkawa i

VIII. Route from Kúkawa to Yóla 351

1. Tépe, the confluence of the Bénuwé and Fáro _Frontispiece_

2. Kanó from Mount Dalá _to face_ 111

3. Dendal in Kúkawa „ 243

4. Kálu-Kemé, the open Water of the Tsád „ 331

5. Shores of Lake Tsád „ 332

Ground-plan of the Town of Kátsena 79

Ground-plan of the Town of Kanó 107

Dagger and Scabbard 110

Ground-plan of my House in Kanó 124

Guinea-fowl Shirt 129

Ground-plan of House in Kúkawa 299

Ground-plan of the Town of Kúkawa 304

The Seghëum of the Marghí 384

Double Peak of Mount Míndif 396

View of Mountain-chain of Úba 416

Mountain-chain, Fingting 421

Ground-plan of Huts 439

Mountain-range beyond Saráwu 450

The Governor’s Audience-hall 490

Ground-plan of Hut in Múbi 527

Household Furniture 528

Different Shape of Huts 549

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES IN AFRICA.

SEPARATION OF THE TRAVELLERS. — THE BORDER DISTRICTS OF THE INDEPENDENT PAGAN CONFEDERATION. — TASÁWA.

[Sidenote: Friday, Jan. 10th, 1851.]

The important day had arrived when we were to separate not only from each other, but also from the old chief Ánnur, upon whom our fortunes had been dependent for so long a period. Having concealed his real intentions till the very last moment, he at length, with seeming reluctance, pretended that he was going first to Zínder. He confided me, therefore, to the care of his brother Elaiji, a most amiable old man, only a year younger than himself, but of a very different character, who was to take the lead of the salt-caravan to Kanó; and he promised me that I should arrive there in safety.

I had been so fortunate as to secure for myself, as far as that place, the services of Gajére, who was settled in Tágelel, where he was regarded as Ánnur’s chief slave, or overseer (“babá-n-báwa”). This man I hired, together with a mare of his, for myself, and a very fine pack-ox for that part of my luggage which my faithful camel, the Bu-Séfi, was unable to carry. Ánnur, I must say, behaved excellently towards me in this matter; for, having called me and Gajére into his presence, he presented his trusty servant, before all the people, with a red bernús on my account, enjoining him in the strictest terms to see me safe to Kanó.

And so I separated from our worthy old friend with deep and sincere regret. He was a most interesting specimen of an able politician and a peaceful ruler in the midst of wild, lawless hordes; and I must do him the justice of declaring that he behaved, on the whole, exceedingly well towards us. I cannot avoid expressing the sorrow I afterwards felt on account of the step which Mr. Richardson thought himself justified in taking as soon as he had passed from the hands of Ánnur into those of the authorities of Bórnu, viz., to urge the sheikh of that country to claim restitution from the former, not only for the value of the things taken from us by the bordering tribes of the desert, but even of part of the sum which we had paid to Ánnur himself. Such conduct, it appeared to me, was not only impolitic, but unfair. It was impolitic, because the claim could be of no avail, and would only serve to alienate from us a man whom we had succeeded in making our friend; and it was unfair, for, although the sum which we had given to the chief was rather large in proportion to our limited means, we were not compelled to pay it, but were simply given to understand that, if we wanted the chief himself to accompany us, we must contribute so much. I became fully aware of the unfavourable effect which Mr. Richardson’s proceedings in this respect produced, on the occasion of a visit which I paid the old chief in the beginning of the year 1853, when passing through Zínder on my way to Timbúktu. He then mentioned the circumstance with much feeling, and asked me if, judging from his whole behaviour towards us, he had deserved to be treated as a robber.

But to return to Tágelel, when I shook hands with the “sófo” he was sitting, like a patriarch of old, in the midst of his slaves and free men, male and female, and was dividing amongst them presents, such as shawls and turkedies, but principally painted armrings of clay, imported from Egypt, and of which the women of these districts are passionately fond. Mr. Richardson being ready to start, I took a hearty farewell of him, fixing our next place of meeting in Kúkawa, about the first of April. He was tolerably well at the time, although he had shown evident symptoms of being greatly affected by the change from the fine fresh air of the mountainous district of Aïr to the sultry climate of the fertile lands of Negroland; and he was quite incapable of bearing the heat of the sun, for which reason he always carried an umbrella, instead of accustoming himself to it by degrees. There was some sinister foreboding in the circumstance that I did not feel sufficient confidence to intrust to his care a parcel for Europe. I had sealed it expressly that he might take it with him to Kúkawa, and send it off from that place with his own despatches immediately after his arrival; but at the moment of parting I preferred taking it myself to Kanó. All my best friends amongst the Kél- owí were also going to Zínder, in order, as they said, to accompany their master, although only a small part of the salt-caravan followed that route. Overweg and I remained together for two or three days longer.

I felt happy in the extreme when I found myself once more on horseback, however deficient in beauty my little mare might be; for few energetic Europeans, I think, will relish travelling for any length of time on camel’s back, as they are far too dependent on the caprice of the animal. We set out at half-past seven o’clock, and soon passed on our right a village, and then a second one, which I think was Dákari, where a noble lady of handsome figure, and well mounted upon a bullock, joined the caravan. She was seated in a most comfortable large chair, which was fastened on the bullock’s back. We afterwards passed on our right the town of Olalówa, situated on a low range of hills. In the lower plain into which we next descended, I observed the first regular ant-hill. Small groups of corn-stacks, or rumbús, further on dotted a depression or hollow, which was encompassed on both sides with gently-sloping hills. Here I had to leave the path of the caravan with my new companion Gajére, who was riding the bullock, in order to water our two beasts, a duty which now demanded our chief attention every day.

At length we reached the watering-place of Gílmirám, consisting of a group of not less than twenty wells, but all nearly dry. The district of Damerghú must sometimes suffer greatly from drought. The horses and cattle of the village were just coming to be watered; what time and pains it must take to satisfy a whole herd, when we were scarcely able to water our two animals! Passing along through thick underwood, where the “kálgo,” with its large dry leaves of olive hue, and its long red pods similar to those of the kharúb-tree, but much larger, predominated almost exclusively, and leaving the village Maihánkuba on our right, we at last overtook the caravan; for the Ásbenáwa pack-oxen are capable of carrying heavy loads at a very expeditious pace, and in this respect leave far behind them the pack-oxen of the fertile regions of Negroland. We now kept along through the woody region, where the tree “góshi,” with an edible fruit, was most frequent. We encamped in a thickly-wooded hollow, when my sociable companion Gajére, as well by the care he took for our evening fire (which he arranged in the most scientific way) as by the information he gave me with regard to the routes leading from Zínder to Kanó, contributed greatly to the comfort and cheerfulness of our bivouac. I first learned from him that there are four different routes from Zínder to Kanó, one route, the westernmost, passing by Dáura; the second, passing by Kazáure; the third, by Garú-n-Gedúnia; the fourth, by Gúmmel (or, as he pronounced it, Gúmiel[1]), gari-n-serki-n- Da-n-Tanóma, this being the easternmost and longest route. Gajére himself was only acquainted with the third route, the stations of which are as follows.

Starting from Zínder you sleep the first night in Gógo, the second in Mokókia, the third in Zólunzólun, the fourth in Magáriá, the fifth in Túnfushí, the sixth in Garú-n-Gedúnia, from whence it is three days’ journey to Kanó.

[Sidenote: Saturday, January 11th.]